Dec 27, 2010 – Steve Rich Environmental Contractors is now BBB.org accredited. Get Quality Oil Tank Removal, Testing and Installation Services in New Jersey with Confidence of #1 and 23 years old company. Steve Rich Environmental Contractors is your local, underground Tank Removal, Tank Testing, and Tank Installation services for Atlantic, Bergen, Burlington, Camden, Cape May, Cumberland, Essex, Gloucester, Hudson, Hunterdon, Mercer, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Ocean, Passaic, Salem, Somerset , Sussex , Union, and Warren Counties, including lower New York and Westchester County.

We take pride in our record of customer satisfaction.

Steve Rich & Associates offers a wide variety of services to meet your environmental contracting requirements such as:

• Tank Testing
• Tank Removal/Tank Abandonment
• Tank Installation
• Soil Testing
• Soil & Groundwater Remediation
• NJDEP Reports
• Geoprobe Services
• Construction
• Vacuum Truck Services

Steve Rich & Associates is a fully certified, bonded and insured to give you the piece of mind that you want when hiring an environmental contractor. All of our environmental professionals have many years of experience in the field of environmental contracting, have a solid working relationship with all major insurance companies, have safety training according to all OSHA standards, and have the resources and equipment necessary to bring your project to completion in a timely, cost-effective manner.

Visit http://www.steve-rich.com now for a quote for getting rid of our Oil Tank or Call 1-877-7-DEPEND.

# # #

Steve Rich & Associates – Steve Rich & Associates is your complete, hometown environmental contracting company. Since 1981, we have provided reliable, comprehensive residential environmental services to the New Jersey / New York metropolitan area.

Call or Email Now to Avail Free Oil Tank Removal Offer:

Phone: 877-7-DEPEND or EMAIL: sr@steve-rich.com

Our team of experts understands the rules and regulations of the PUST program. With the help of the State’s program, SREC has developed our own program for homeowners to remove or abandon an old underground storage tank (UST) and an installation of a brand NEW oil tank, absolutely FREE. Planning on converting to gas or alternative energy? Not a problem, this program is also designed for just removing an underground storage tank as well. SREC will remove the old oil tank FREE of charge.

If you meet the following requirements, you are on your way to safeguarding your existing or new home CLEAR and FREE of any environmentally concerns that may have surfaced with continued use of an old UST.

Visit here for complete information: http://www.steve-rich.com/services/free_tank_removal.shtml

Those spills not only threaten the safety of nearby drinking water sources, they also cost the state — and therefore taxpayers — several million dollars annually to remediate.

But beginning July 1, some homeowners installing new or replacement heating oil tanks in specially designated “wellhead protection zones” will have to take extra steps — and pay extra money — to prevent contamination of drinking water sources.

A law passed by the Legislature last year will now require any new or replacement tanks installed within select areas of the state be either double walled or feature a secondary method for containing spills.

Specifically, the law will apply to replacement or new heating oil tanks installed within 1,000 feet of a community drinking water well or within the designated protective zone around that wellhead. A “community drinking water well” is defined as any water system that serves at least 25 people or that has at least 15 connections.

According to the DEP, there are more than 400 community water systems in the state, ranging from municipal water districts to mobile home parks or nursing homes with their own water systems.

The new law will not affect homeowners living outside a designated wellhead protective zone or those with their own personal wells. The law also would apply only when an affected homeowner must replace an oil tank; it does not mandate removal of functional existing tanks.

David McCaskill, an engineer with the DEP’s Bureau of Remediation and Waste Management, said cleaning up after home heating oil spills is one of his division’s busiest jobs.

Roughly 80 percent of Maine’s homes rely on oil for heat — the highest percentage in the nation.

“We spend $2 million a year cleaning up home heating oil tank spills,” McCaskill said. “There is an average of one leak a day.”

The highest percentage of those spills result from tanks that corroded away.

“It’s the long, slow leaks that are catastrophic,” McCaskill added, “because they saturate the soil underneath the house.”

Homeowners affected by the new law will have several choices in tank designs, all of which are likely to cost more than traditional tanks.

The first, less expensive option — coming in at around $200 more than a standard tank, according to McCaskill — are known as double-bottomed tanks and feature an enclosed reservoir at the bottom of the tank to capture any spillage. The tanks have a float mechanism to allow for visual inspection.

Tanks that are double-walled all the way around can set a homeowner back, on average, an additional $1,000 or more, but these tanks are more protective of the environment. For outdoor tanks, the DEP recommends double-walled, reinforced fiberglass tanks.

Finally, homeowners with outdoor tanks also can invest in a containment system that resembles a small shed for a tank. Such an enclosure captures spills while protecting the tank from the elements.

Answer: You don’t want to buy a property where there’s even the smallest chance of an environmental hazard. If you’re serious about the property, get another inspection by a licensed engineer and make it the seller’s problem to resolve it by making it a contingency in the contract of sale. If the seller cannot provide legal documentation about whether an oil tank is or isn’t there, then you can walk away from the deal.

Question: I’m having trouble finding tenants for my Washington, D.C., area rental property. Real estate agents have listed my property, we’re on Craigslist, in The Washington Post and registered with Section 8 in my area. I did the right thing by having a good cash reserve to begin with, but I’m sinking fast having to supplement the rent for the empty apartments. 

Answer: This doesn’t sound like an advertising issue, it sounds like a property issue. Tenants want clean, freshly painted apartments in good condition, with new fixtures and appliances. And rent prices have fallen, so consider offering concessions like a half or full month’s free rent to entice potential renters. When you make an apartment more appealing than all the rest, you’ll more than make up these investments with a group of happy, stable tenants over the long haul.

Question: My wife and I have been ­married for 31 years and have always rented a house. Now we’ve saved enough to buy a nice home with no mortgage. However, some people have advised us to obtain a small mortgage since we may need money for unpredicted home repairs, increases in insurance, electricity, heating, property taxes and other living expenses. They also said we’d be losing the “interest” income you normally collect from savings, which could be used for improving our retirement years. We’ll probably both retire in about six years and will be living on my government pension and our Social Security checks. What would you advise?

Answer: I’d shop around for a home that’s either new or in very good condition to avoid those unforeseen repairs. Find out about any hidden problems or potential problems by getting the house inspected before you sign the contract. Figure out what your income will be once you’ve retired and make sure it will cover your monthly housing expenses of taxes, insurance and utilities. Plus, add a little extra onto your monthly expenses for the first year of living in your new home. I guarantee you’ll need all kinds of tools and accessories that you haven’t thought of — especially since you’re going from an apartment to a house. As for the mortgage issue, you’ll get the accompanying tax benefit while you’re both working if you take out a small, short-term mortgage. Use your retirement date as measurement for the size of the mortgage you take out — you’ll want to have that mortgage paid off by the time you retire. Once you’re on a fixed income, you’ll want to minimize your monthly costs and a mortgage you don’t need should be the first to go!

Question: I am contemplating purchasing a condo in the East Harlem neighborhood of New York City as an investment. Do you think it is a good idea, especially now that the developers are so willing to negotiate?

Answer: Now’s a great time to get a deal on many new condos in New York City. Some sponsors have a lot of unsold units and big loans to pay off and they’re very eager to sell. You can negotiate on price and the closing costs, which are substantial. State and city transfer taxes alone add up to almost 2% of the purchase price, unless you work that into the deal. I will caution you to buy only if you’re looking to hold on to the property for at least five years so you can ride out this bear market. And make sure you know what you can rent the place for so you can cover your costs. As far as Harlem goes, it’s a great place to buy real estate if you can negotiate a bottom-line price that will make your monthly payments less than what you would pay for a rental.

Question:  If a home in Indiana is listed for $169,900, is there a percentage you can take off the price or is it just based on the other, similar houses in the area? I watch you on the “Today” show and thought I remembered you saying there is a percentage that homeowners mark up their property. We started our bid at $155,500. The appraised value in ’08 was $149,900, so how could it have gone up $20,000?

Answer: There are no rules regarding how owners price their home. Your opening offer is a good one and the sellers would be nuts not to counter. It’s unlikely the home’s value has gone up 13% since last year, so it seems to me that the owners have priced their house so they could negotiate with a buyer like you. Don’t forget that you and the seller set the value when you agree on a price. If you’re less than $15,000 apart, just stick to your guns and you should be able to buy it for somewhere between the asking price and your bid.

(This is taken from nydailynews.com)

Martin Topor, the owner of Central Oil in Chicopee, advises people not to panic.

He said a gallon of home heating oil is selling for $2.15 per gallon, which is half the price it was this time last year.

Topor told 22News despite the recent spike in the price of oil, there is a 15-year high in inventories and oil prices should come down.

Topor said he does not think people have to run out today and buy their home heating oil.

As we enter 2009 with talk of “green” technology, there is a growing threat that seems to be flying under the radar for most people in the United States.

Oil and fuel tanks that have been long buried beneath lawns on residential homes have become the most widespread threat to our environment, threatening ground water and drinking water supplies. Buried oil tanks raise increasing environmental, safety, legal and economic concerns for home owners because oil leaks can lead to environmental damage and expensive cleanup operations.

Installing a new, above ground indoor oil storage tank involves significant expense. However, the Petroleum Underground Storage Tank Remediation, Upgrade and Closure Program provides loans and grants to eligible applicants to help finance project costs for the closure and replacement of a non-leaking residential underground storage tank (UST).

To qualify, consumers must:

1. Have a federal taxable income of less than $250,000;

2. Have a net worth of not more than $500,000 (excluding your primary residence & pension)

3. You spend more than 51% of your income on living expenses (including mortgage, car and insurance payments)

If an oil tank has leaked the cost to clean up contaminated soils can be very significant, But the NJDEP grant program will cover the complete cleanup provided you have been denied by your homeowners insurance policy. While home heating oil tanks are excluded from Federal and NJDEP Regulations about oil storage tank reporting and monitoring, they are addressed by NJDEP regulations once they leak.

More importantly, when you go to sell your home, Banks and Insurance companies make it almost impossible for a buyer to purchase a home with a Underground Storage Tank.

As an environmental services expert, Steve Rich of Steve Rich Environmental Contractors, Inc. shows how this program works.

“First, we have a staff in our office, who will help you fill out all the paper work and help submit it right the first time.” Steve explains, “there are companies who will charge you to fill out the paper work and help with submissions, SREC does not charge, we help every one of our clients.”

Companies must be certified by NJDEP in Tank Closure and sub surface evaluation. What that means is you can’t hire any excavation contractor to complete the work, nor can you do the work yourself and get reimbursed.

“We are committed in making the application process less complicated and you can count on SREC to help you complete the application and get it done right.

“The only thing we need from a NJ customer who meets the criteria is the time to fill out there personal information on the forms, after that, SREC will complete everything that’s needed,

• Getting approval from the state program.
• Securing local permits
• Removing and if applicable, install an new Above Ground Storage Tank.
• Getting appropriate inspections.
• Backfilling you property to grade.
• Most importantly, securing your “Peace of mind”

SREC will expedite paperwork processing and handle all the work from start to finish.”

NJ Homeowners should be pro-active and should take advantage now while funding is available. For more information, visit www.steve-rich.com.

Tank Removal

There are several reasons why you would want to remove your underground storage tank. If you are converting to natural gas or installing an above ground storage tank for your home heating needs. Most importantly, SREC strongly recommends removing your underground storage tank if you plan to sell your home. Selling your home is stressful enough even without any major complications.

However, having your tank removed, inspected and the soil tested will eliminate any potential problems you would have encountered if your tank remained on your property. Removing your underground storage tank and obtaining closure will satisfy the most stringent of home inspections or due diligence by future homebuyers.

SREC can help, beginning with a free consultation.

If you choose to contract SREC to remove your tank, our helpful staff will acquire permits, obtain utility markouts*, and make arrangements with municipal inspectors in order to prepare for your tank removal. Our experienced personnel will efficiently and properly complete your tank removal in four to five hours leaving you with Peace of Mind.

What you can expect:

• Safety is a primary concern for our company. Our team will confirm the location of underground utilities before beginning the tank removal process.

• Once the underground storage tank (UST) is located, a small track excavator will be used to expose the tank.

• The UST is then cut open and the contents, usually fuel oil and sludge, are removed with a licensed vacuum truck and transported to a certified liquid disposal facility or transferred, at your request, to a newly installed AST.

• Fully covered in protective gear, a representative from SREC enters the tank to clean it with absorbent pads and a squeegee.

• The UST is then removed with the excavator and inspected for holes or signs of corrosion by both SREC personnel and the municipal inspector.

• Upon completion of the inspection of both the tank and its grave, the excavation is filled to grade with certified clean fill. A 550-gallon tank removal typically yields a 6 foot by 8 foot excavation area roughly graded. A 1000-gallon tank removal typically yields a 6 foot by 13 foot excavation area roughly graded.

• A sales representative will provide a completed tank certification booklet to you. It includes:

• Copy of local permits • Tank disposal receipt 
• Tank contents manifest • Certified clean fill receipt
• Certificate of removal and a copy of SREC New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection tank removal license

* Please note that a minimum 4-day period from the contract date is required before work can begin in order to properly obtain utility markouts.

Tank Abandonment

In recent years, the NJDEP recommends and most insurance companies require tank removal over tank abandonment. However, in the event that there is no access to the tank due to either landscape or structural impediments, tank abandonment may be necessary.

As we do with our tank removal, SREC will again take all steps necessary to provide you with superior service and properly abandon your tank in just a few hours. Once your tank is cut open and cleaned, our highly trained personnel will core holes through the bottom of the tank and extract soil samples to confirm the integrity of the soil.

These samples will be sent to an NJDEP certified lab for analysis. The empty tank will be filled with inert material such as sand or concrete slurry. The 4 foot by 4 foot excavation will be filled to grade with certified clean fill.

Upon completion, a completed tank certification booklet will be provided. It includes:

• Copy of local permits • Tank contents manifest
• Certified clean fill receipt • Certificate of abandonment 
• Copy of SREC / NJDEP tank removal license

*Please note that a minimum 4-day period from the contract date is required before work can begin in order to properly obtain utility markouts.

Today is the day of the Beijing 2008 Olympic opening ceremony. Already, Google launched multiple special sites and services for the Olympics. Thanks to everyone providing pointers for this!

Google’s main Olympics site

Google’s main Olympics page has different designs depending on the country. The China homepage is more colorful than the US homepage. In the US, you can launch videos, gadgets, and see the current medals won overlaid on a Google Map (the latter is also featured on a standalone page). There are stories collected via Google News as well.

YouTube’s special Olympics channel

The YouTube Olympics channel is only available in some countries, being geo-IP-banned elsewhere. “The IOC’s [International Olympic Committee] Channel will be accessible in territories where digital VOD [video on demand] rights have not been sold or have been acquired on a non-exclusive basis,” the press release explains.

+ The countries where this channel shows are…

Afghanistan, Angola, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Benin, Bhutan, Botswana, Brunei, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Comoros, Congo, The Democratic Republic Of The Congo, Ivory Coast, Djibouti, East Timor, Equatorial Guinea, Ethiopia, Gabon, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, India, Indonesia, Iran Islamic Republic Of, Iraq, Kenya, Democratic People’s Republic Of Korea, Kuwait, People’s Democratic Republic Lao, Lesotho, Liberia, Madagascar, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Mali, Mauritania, Mauritius, Mongolia, Mozambique, Myanmar, Namibia, Nepal, Niger, Nigeria, Oman, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Qatar, Republic of Korea, Rwanda, Saudi Arabia, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Swaziland, Syrian Arab Republic, United Republic Of Tanzania, Thailand, Togo, Uganda, United Arab Emirates, Vietnam, Yemen, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

A special Google Olympics logo

The Olympics doodle links to a search for the words Beijing 2008 Olympic Games. Shown in the logo are the Beijing mascots Beibei, Jingjing, Huanhuan, Yingying and Nini, who together spell “Bei Jing Huan Ying Ni” – “welcome to Beijing”. They carry the Olympic flag, which contains rings representing the world’s continents.

Talking about mascots, the two avatars above are not for the Olympics… they’re virtually “patrolling” the web and showing up on sites, likely to show users who’s in charge (in China, what you may or may not say online is part of a controlled system, where e.g. loudly protesting against human rights violations may be censored).

Gold medal count onebox

Searching for e.g. italy olympics or german olympics aims to show the Gold medals won by the respective country in the form of a onebox (a special Google result). The box is linked to the offical Olympics homepage at Beijing2008.cn.

Upcoming contests onebox

As previously mentioned, another onebox in results pop up when entering queries like taekwondo olympics, though it doesn’t work in every country (I added the “gl=us” parameter to the search URL here so you can see it).

+ The available sports are…

Archery, Athletics, Badminton, Baseball, Basketball, Beach Volleyball, Boxing, Canoe/Kayak Flatwater, Canoe/Kayak Slalom, Cycling BMX, Cycling Mountain Bike, Cycling Road, Cycling Track, Diving, Equestrian, Fencing, Football, Gymnastics Artistic, Gymnastics Rhythmic, Trampoline, Handball, Hockey, Judo, Modern Pentathlon, Rowing, Sailing, Shooting, Softball, Swimming, Synchronized Swimming, Table Tennis, Taekwondo, Tennis, Triathlon, Volleyball, Water Polo, Weightlifting, and Wrestling.

Google China SMS alerts

China has a page where you can subscribe to SMS alerts in a variety of sports categories.

SketchUp 3D models

The Google 3D Warehouse, which features models for SketchUp and Google Earth, has a selection of architecture related to the summer games.

A YouTube video takes you through the 3D-scenery (corny music alert level raised to orange).

LaiBa Olympics page

Google-powered community Tianya LaiBa has a special page for the Olympics. Social boards like LaiBa are sometimes in contact with the Chinese authorities to receive orders what can and cannot be discussed. For instance (according to a source who likes to remain anonymous and with help of auto-translation), in 2004 one University’s discussion board received instructions which included that “criticizing Taiwan independence” was OK but that no one should “incite group activities.” Google does not tell the press how such communications take place specifically.

iGoogle gadget

Google offers a summer games gadget that’s supposed to show competition results as they come in. (The iGoogle.com gadget search when I tried it here did not return any results for either olympic, olympics or beijing, which felt broken. The iGoogle gadget Sports category turned up completely empty.) There is no specific air pollution gadget available specifically for Beijing but Google Earth has a way to show pollution since 2007. Ex-Google employee Ana Yang snapped some photos in China showing not exactly “blue sky days,” as she says (any expert out there who knows how much is fog, if any, and how much is smog?).

Mobile page

Google’s Olympics mobile page offers results for the different sports. Google’s mobile page shows the special Olympics doodle, too (albeit it’s not optimized for that size).

iGoogle China

Google’s iGoogle homepage for China shows a special theme and an Olympics gadget.

Google News Olympics section

Google News presents a category dedicated to the Olympics, containing news coverage from traditional news sources as well as some multi-author blogs, an Olympic medals overview, and schedules for the upcoming events. (The Chinese version of Google News is partly censored by Google.)

Google Desktop gadget

The 2008 Summer Games gadget for Google Desktop contains schedules, results and medal counts, as the description explains.

Currently, homeowners policies provide pollution coverage for liability caused by above ground or underground oil tanks up to the homeowner’s policy liability limits.  Most policies do not provide coverage for pollution damage to a homeowner’s premises unless the pollution is caused by a covered peril.

In  2005, the Department  permitted the Insurance Services Office  to implement a $10,000 first party remediation coverage which would also provide a  $50,000 liability limit for the  escape of liquid fuel and lead liability limitation with a 1% reduction in the current loss cost and options to purchase higher limits.  

Several companies impose surcharges for the presence of oil tanks on the premises. Other companies have been given Department approval to exclude pollution liability caused by oil tanks with an option to buy-back the pollution liability coverage for an additional premium. The “buy-back” of oil tanks coverage may not be available for insureds with old oil tanks (over 20 years) and the “buy-back” may only be offered once to new applicants.

Since all oil tanks will ultimately leak, the Department urges all homeowners with oil tanks to have their tanks tested and inspected and to replace old oil tanks to protect New Jersey’s environment and to prevent a homeowners pollution liability loss.

We are helping home owners in Application for State Grants for the Oil Tank Removal and Testing. More information of this program:

Free Oil Tank Removal:
• Reimburse your $250.00 grant application fee.*
• Help you complete the necessary forms to apply for the grant program.
• Compile all the necessary documentation to submit with the grant application.
• Apply for the permits through the local municipality.
• Schedule inspection with the municipality.
• Backfill site to grade (no site restoration, topsoil, concrete, etc). A quote can be provided to do complete restoration.

New Oil Tank Installation:
• Apply for the permits through the local municipality.
• Schedule inspection with the town.
• Supply a UL listed 275 gallon tank.
• Transfer enough oil for startup of the new tank system.
• All associate piping to the boiler.

Steve Rich & Associates is your complete, hometown environmental contracting company. Since 1981, we have provided reliable, comprehensive residential environmental services to the New Jersey / New York metropolitan area. Our company is designed to be small enough to give each project our full attention yet large enough to get your job done efficiently. Our experienced professionals are committed to providing cost-effective solutions for all of your environmental needs.

We take pride in our record of customer satisfaction.

Steve Rich & Associates offers a wide variety of services to meet your environmental contracting requirements such as:

• Tank Testing
• Tank Removal/Tank Abandonment
• Tank Installation
• Soil Testing
• Soil & Groundwater Remediation
• NJDEP Reports
• Geoprobe Services
• Construction
• Vacuum Truck Services

Steve Rich & Associates is a fully certified, bonded and insured to give you the piece of mind that you want when hiring an environmental contractor. All of our environmental professionals have many years of experience in the field of environmental contracting, have a solid working relationship with all major insurance companies, have safety training according to all OSHA standards, and have the resources and equipment necessary to bring your project to completion in a timely, cost-effective manner.

Serving all countries of New Jersey and New York including Atlantic, Bergen,
Burlington, Camden, Cape May, Cumberland, Essex, Gloucester, Hudson, Hunterdon, Mercer, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Ocean, Passaic, Salem, Somerset, Sussex, Union, and Warren Counties, including lower New York and Westchester County.

Steve Rich & Associates, Inc.
One Passaic Street — Unit A
Wood-Ridge, New Jersey 07075
Phone: 973-458-1188
Toll-Free: 1-877-7-DEPEND
Fax: 973-458-1199
steve@steve-rich.com

The Federal Energy Policy Act of 2005 requires the NJ Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) to report on sources and causes of releases from Federally regulated underground storage tank (UST) systems. In order to comply with these reporting requirements, the DEP has developed procedures to gather data for each new release from a Federal UST.

All parties conducting remediation at a site with Federally regulated USTs shall complete the Federal UST Release Reporting Form and submit with any initial Remedial Investigation Report submitted to comply with N.J.A.C. 7:14B-8.3.

Applicability and Summary of Regulated Underground Storage Tanks in New Jersey

Definition of Terms

Sources of Federal Release

• Tank: This term means the tank that stores the product and is part of the underground storage tank system.
• Piping: This term means the piping and connectors running from the tank or submersible turbine pump to the dispenser or other end-use equipment. It does not include vent, vapor recovery, or fill lines.
• Dispenser: This term includes the dispenser and equipment used to connect the dispenser to the piping. For example, a release from a suction pump or components located above the shear valve would be considered a release from the dispenser.
• Submersible Turbine Pump (STP) Area: This term includes the submersible turbine pump head (typically located in the tank sump), the line leak detector, and the piping that connects the submersible turbine pump to the tank.
• Spill Bucket: A product tight chamber that surrounds the fill port riser. It is designed to capture any product that may spill when disconnecting the delivery truck hose from the UST fill port riser.
• Vapor Recovery System: Any component of the tank system designed to recover gasoline vapors generated when filling a vehicle’s fuel tank (stage II vapor recovery). This system, depending on design, can include associated hoses, piping and/or drop tank.
• Vent Pipe: A pipe that lets air enter an UST when product is dispensed.
• Fill Port/Fill Lines: The end of the drop tube at ground surface where product is introduced to an UST. This includes remote fill ports and associated piping connected to the UST.
• Delivery Problem: This term identifies releases that occurred during product delivery to the tank. Typical causes associated with this source are spills and overfills.
• Other: Use this option when the release source does not fit into one of the above categories. For example, releases from vent lines, vapor recovery lines, and fill lines would be included in this category.

Cause of Federal Release

• Spill: Use this cause when a spill occurs. For example, spills may occur when the delivery hose is disconnected from the fill pipe of the tank or when the nozzle is removed from the vehicle at the dispenser.
• Overfill: Use this cause when an overfill occurs. For example, overfills may occur from the fill pipe at the tank or when the nozzle fails to shut off at the dispenser.
• Physical or Mechanical Damage (Phys/Mech Damage): Use this cause for all types of physical or mechanical damage except corrosion as described below. Some examples of physical or mechanical damage include: a puncture of the tank or piping, loose fittings, broken components, and components that have changed dimension (for example, elongation or swelling).
• Corrosion: Use this cause when a metal tank, piping, or other component has a release due to corrosion (for steel, corrosion takes the form of rust). This is a specific type of physical or mechanical damage.
• Installation Problem: Use this cause
• Other: Use this option when the cause is known, but does not fit into one of the above categories. For example, accidentally or intentionally putting regulated substances into a monitor well would be included in this category.
• Unknown: Use this option only when the cause is not know

Relocation brings much excitement and many things to accomplish in a short time. Surely one of the most consuming tasks is selling your current home and finding a new one. These tips will help you to sell your current home quickly, for the best price possible, and to find the perfect home in your new location.

Marketing Your Home

Your agent should provide you with a comprehensive, week-by-week marketing plan for your home. This can include:

• Local advertising
• Internet listings
• Open houses
• Broker open houses (to expose your home to other real estate professionals)

Your agent should keep careful records of all prospective buyers and share his or her feedback with you. He or she should work closely with you throughout the process, adjusting the marketing plan as needed.

Pricing Your Home

Your agent will help you set an asking price for your home. Many outside factors can affect the value of your property:

• Supply and demand
• Mortgage rates
• Economic conditions
• Time of year
• Property tax rates and local services
• Neighborhood characteristics.

Agents review recent sales of similar properties in your area to help them arrive at a price. Your company might require one or more formal appraisals along with this “broker market analysis” (BMA). Appraisers look at recent sales, but also analyze square footage, features, finishes, and other details, and make adjustments for differences.

While you might have a price in mind, remember that the local market ultimately dictates the value of your home. Overpricing is more likely to scare prospective buyers away than to result in more money in your pocket. Appropriately priced homes sell quickly, reducing your stress and helping you settle in at the new location sooner.

Showing Your Home

It’s best to show your home while it’s still occupied. Many buyers have a hard time imagining what a vacant home will look like when it’s furnished.

With today’s busy lifestyles, few buyers have the time or inclination to take on a fixer-upper. Your home should shine, inside and out. Your agent will offer suggestions on sprucing up your home. Don’t take this personally; view it as objective marketing advice. Consider the following:

If you would like more specific help in preparing your home for showings, consider the services of the “home stager” provided for you by your agent!

Repairs and Improvements

It’s important to make minor repairs but discuss any major improvements with your agent. Some might not add enough value to your home to justify the expense.

Fixtures/Personal Property

Understanding the difference between fixtures and personal property will help you avoid potential problems. Buyers assume fixtures will stay with the property; personal property can be a negotiating point.

Fixtures
A fixture is an item that is permanently attached to your home, such as wall-to-wall carpeting, television antennas, ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, and built-in appliances. If you plan to remove any fixtures, such as chandeliers, be sure to advise your agent.Personal Property
Personal property is not attached to the property; it includes custom-made draperies, appliances, patio furniture, and the like. If you intend to leave personal property behind, be sure to clarify this with your agent.

Disclosure

By law, sellers must disclose all relevant property conditions and defects of which they’re currently aware of or of which they reasonably should have been aware. Failure to disclose constitutes fraud, and a buyer can sue a seller for any oversights or misrepresentations. Many buyers hire professionals to inspect properties they’re considering.

Be sure to advise your agent of any issues related to:

• Structural integrity (roof, foundation, etc.)
• Systems (electrical, plumbing, septic, etc.)
• Water penetration
• Flooding and drainage
• Municipal requirements
• Toxic substances

Buying a Home

Your Real Estate Firm

Let your agent work for you. He or she will be your eyes and ears in the new location, providing all the information you need before your homefinding trip. Your agent should keep you informed and help you manage the details.

Selecting a Neighborhood and Home

The house you’re buying now is the house you’ll be selling in the future. Your Relocation Counselor will work closely with you and your agent to ensure the property and purchase terms are in your best interest.

The old real estate adage of “location, location, location” is still true. Whether or not you have children, the areas with the best school systems, services and amenities tend to have the highest resale values.

Traditional neighborhoods and popular local styles are more likely to sell in less time and attract more buyers.

Well-maintained, aesthetically pleasing homes are more likely to hold their value.

What to Avoid

• Because new construction sells at a premium, it often loses value for the first few years. Also, if the home is not complete yet, your move will be much more complex and stressful than necessary. In a relocation situation, new construction is best avoided.
• Environmental problems (toxic waste sites, buried oil tanks) and properties containing toxic substances (asbestos, radon, lead paint) should be avoided at all costs. For your protection, your Relocation Counselor will suggest several property inspections. For more about environmental hazards, visit www.epa.gov
• Properties with excess acreage or that have been over-improved for the area can be difficult to re-sell.

Let your home finding real estate agent work for you. The agent will be your eyes and ears in the new location, providing all the information you need prior to scheduling your home finding trip. You have the right to demand a high level of service, to be kept informed, and to expect your agent to follow up on all the details for you.

The Law of Agency

Agency is the relationship created when one person (the principal) delegates to another (the agent) the power to act on his or her behalf in a transaction. Most purchase agreements explain agency and the relationship between the agent(s) and the seller.

A real estate broker typically represents the seller. This is true whether or not the agent is the listing agent. However, Codes of Ethics require your agent to act in a fair and ethical manner to all parties involved in a transaction. Unless a buyer has entered into a specific employment agreement with a real estate agent, that agent works for the seller. The best course of action is to ask your agent whether or not he or she is a subagent of the listing agent.

As a buyer, you may enter into an agreement with an agent which states that the agent works solely on your behalf. This is called Buyer Brokerage, and in some parts of the country the agent is paid by the buyer, and the compensation is agreed upon between these two parties. In this type of arrangement, the agent will look for properties that meet your requirements, then attempt to negotiate price and terms favorable to you.

What to Look For. . .

Always view the home you are considering as the home you may be selling in the future, should you be relocated or move for other reasons. To help you better assess a potential home purchase, your Relocation Counselor will work closely with you and your agent to assure the property and terms of the purchase are in your best interest.

The old real estate adage of “location, location, location” continues to be of primary importance when making a purchase decision. Be sure your real estate agent is concentrating on those locations deemed most desirable for their neighborhood amenities and services and their consistently high resale values.

The best school systems, reasonable property taxes, and public utilities will all contribute to a better quality of life and good resale potential.

Don’t be drawn in by unique properties or locations. Conforming neighborhoods and local traditional styles are more likely to sell in less time and attract more buyers. While you may be competing with other relocating purchasers for properties of this type the investment will be worth the time and effort.

Homes that have been well-maintained and are aesthetically pleasing are more likely to sustain their value in the long run.

…What to Avoid

If there’s a possibility that you will be relocating within five years, avoid new construction. Historically, new construction loses value over the first five years, and you may end up owing more than the property is worth.

Environmental problems (toxic waste sites, buried oil tanks) and properties containing toxic substances (asbestos, radon, lead paint) should be avoided at all costs. Your Relocation Counselor will suggest certain inspections be performed to ensure that the selected property is free of these problems.

Properties with excess acreage or that have been over-improved for the area can be questionable investments at best. While they may offer desired amenities and appeal, the potential for future resale problems is increased.

While condominiums and cooperatives appeal to those not interested in the usual maintenance and upkeep associated with traditional homes, their resale history has been disappointing. Whether the result of the homeowners association management, restrictions and bylaws, maintenance and construction issues, or market saturation, these are typically not your best real estate investment.

Disclosure

Real estate transactions are governed by laws and regulations designed to protect the interests of both sellers and buyers. Every home seller has certain duties and obligations to a buyer, including full disclosure of all known defects, or defects that should have been known. Failure to disclose all known facts regarding a property constitutes fraud, and as a buyer you have certain rights in this regard.

Before agreeing to purchase a property, ask your agent to secure the seller’s “Disclosure Checklist.” The usual areas of concern are:

• structure
• systems (electrical, plumbing, heating, septic, etc.)
• water penetration
• flooding and drainage
• municipal requirements
• toxic substances

Settling In

Your agent can provide you with a tour of the new area, tailored to your personal needs and lifestyle. Most real estate companies also offer newcomer information packages, and can recommend local professionals (doctors, lawyers, hairdressers, cleaners, etc.) to help you settle into your new area.

For Renters

Selecting the right rental home will go a long way towards ensuring your happiness in your new location. Finding a property that meets your needs and budget can be tricky, though. These will help you determine what’s most important to you and help you navigate your way through the rental process.

Finding Your Rental Home and Preparing for Your Homefinding Trip

Assessing Your Needs

The key to successful homefinding is carefully assessing your needs before your first homefinding trip. This way, you’ll know exactly what you’re looking for-and what you want to avoid. Your Real Estate Agent should provide detailed information on your destination area prior to your homefinding trip, helping you maximize your time and efforts.

One of the most important steps in finding your new home is knowing exactly how much rent you can afford. A good rule of thumb is that your rent should be no more than 30 percent of your gross monthly income (although there are, of course, exceptions to this rule). Weichert can assist you in evaluating the amount of rent you can afford.

It is also important to remember that renters are often required to pay a security deposit (usually one month’s rent) before they can move in. Additionally, some renters are required to pay their last month’s rent in advance. This is often the case when renting a single family home from a private owner.

A rental application fee, which can cost between $15 to $100 to process, is usually required as well.

Inspecting Properties

When you’ve found a property that meets your needs, examine it carefully before you sign a lease.

• Windows should open, lock properly, and have screens.
• Sliding glass doors should open cleanly. Screens should be operable and intact.
• Check the roof for missing or curled shingles and ceilings and walls for water marks and other signs of leaks.
• Check plumbing and water pressure by flushing the toilet and running the faucets.
• Make sure any included kitchen appliances work properly (range, refrigerator, dishwasher, garbage disposal, etc.)

Before You Sign a Lease

Once you’ve decided on a property, the landlord will probably ask you to fill out a rental application. This form will request information such as:

• Names, addresses, and phone numbers of previous and current employers and landlords
• Salary history
• Banking information
• Credit card information
• Social security number
• Personal (non-work related) references

This information allows the landlord to check your credit history (usually through a credit bureau) and your relationships with former landlords.

Rental Agreement or Lease

Before you occupy your new rental property, you will be asked to sign either a rental agreement or a lease. A lease specifies a fixed term and monthly payment, for example, a one-year lease at $1,000 per month. Rental agreements are sometimes known as “month-to-month” arrangements. Either you or the landlord may end the arrangement at any time with proper notice (specific notice requirements vary by location). Similarly, the landlord can adjust the rent with proper notice (again, the laws and regulations vary by area.) A lease is usually the more favorable option, as it guarantees a fixed rent for a longer period. However, if you are uncertain how long you will be renting, a rental agreement offers more flexibility.

Lease Basics

A lease is a binding legal document that states that a tenant can occupy property owned by the landlord under specified conditions. Although leases vary, they usually specify the following:

• A full description of the rental property
• The amount of each rent payment and the due date, including late charge and grace period information
• The amount of the security deposit, and the conditions under which it might be retained by the landlord
• Services to be provided by the landlord (landscaping, repairs, etc.) and tenant responsibilities
• Rules and regulations that the tenant is expected to follow while renting the property
• Available amenities or services (trash removal, swimming pool, laundry facilities)

Clauses Requiring Your Attention

One of the most important parts of a lease is the Termination Clause, which describes what will happen at the end of your lease. Some leases renew automatically unless you notify the landlord that you plan to leave. Other leases simply transform into a month-to-month rental agreement. If you anticipate being relocated by your company sometime in the near future, we recommend having the following language built into your lease:

“In the event the lessee is relocated by his or her corporation, the lessee may terminate this lease upon thirty (30) days prior written notice to lessor with no lease termination penalty.”

Other clauses to watch for include those that address automatic rent escalation and transfer of repair duty from the landlord to the tenant.

Security Deposit and Pre-Move Inspection

Most landlords require a security deposit (usually one month’s rent). After you leave, the landlord will assess the property’s condition. If there is no damage beyond normal wear and tear, he or she should return the deposit to you. Since the landlord will scrutinize the property before you move out, you should compile a detailed list of any problems or damages that exist when you move in, and have the list signed by your landlord. This way, you won’t be liable for pre-existing damage when you move out.

Tenants’ Rights

Most states offer tenants’ rights booklets which offer detailed outlines of your rights as protected by state and federal laws. Check the state government Web site of your new location or visit your destination city hall for more information.

For Global Assignees

Relocating abroad is exciting, but it also can seem overwhelming. This offers a practical overview of the many considerations in moving to another country. Included are helpful tips on your home-search trip, required legal and medical documentation, advice on preparing for travel, and suggestions on what to take with you and what to leave behind.

Destination Area Information

You Real Estate Agent scould send you complete information on your destination area before your homesearch trip, including:

• Local business and cultural customs
• Language practices
• Entry requirements
• Money usage
• Health and safety considerations
• Recreational activities… and more

Once you arrive, your GAR will brief you on the area. He or she will arrange for you to see carefully selected properties and oversee the entire process. Once you’ve selected a home, (s)he will handle lease negotiations and coordinate move in activities, such as inspections and utility connections.

Before You Leave

Important Documents

Passports are required for most foreign travel. Passport regulations vary from country to country, but usually include:

• A previous passport (if available)
• Proof of citizenship
• Proof of identity
• Photographs

Some countries require visas as well. For a work assignment, almost all countries require a work permit. Your company will assist you in acquiring needed work permits before you leave. Note that work permits for spouses or partners are usually difficult to come by. Permits are usually available only when employment is already arranged and the job can’t be performed by a national.

Medical/Dental Records

Have complete medical and dental exams at least three months before departing. This allows time for any needed treatments. Be sure to bring copies of medical and dental records with you.

If you take prescription medication, ask your doctor to name generic drugs. He or she can also provide documentation to avoid any customs issues.

Other Documents

Bring these important documents with you:

• School records/transcripts
• Marriage/divorce certificates
• Financial records
• Birth certificates
• Adoption papers
• Proof of purchase/appraisals for valuable goods (jewels, artwork, etc.)

Other Considerations Before You Leave

Currency Exchange

ATMs are common in most typical assignment locations, so it’s usually unnecessary (and unwise) to carry large sums of money. It’s smart to exchange a small amount of currency before you leave, to cover ground transportation and tipping when you arrive.

Financial Matters

It’s usually best to open a bank account in your destination location while retaining your accounts at home. Local accounts help to simplify local transactions, such as rent payments. If your home bank is a large, multinational institution, it might have affiliates in your destination area.

Many countries have regulations on currency imports and exports; check with your financial or legal advisors.

Taxes

Tax situations vary widely from country to country. In many places, your tax liability follows you around the world. Some countries allow certain tax credits for taxes paid abroad. You should speak with tax and/or accounting professionals before you move. Your employer may authorize tax/legal assistance on your behalf.

Voting

Most countries allow citizens living abroad to cast absentee ballots. Check your country’s regulations before you leave.

Preparing for Travel

Flight Tips

• Carry all necessary items with you: prescription drugs, important documents, passports, etc.
• Don’t overpack. Heavy, bulky, carry-on luggage can become a burden quickly.
• Dress comfortably, and in layers.
• If traveling with young children, bring a few books, toys, etc. to keep them amused.
• Try to move around the cabin and stretch as much as practical.
• To minimize dehydration, avoid alcohol and caffeine. Drink water and fruit juices.

On the Ground

Check out your airport transportation options. Many cities ofter express rail service between the airport and downtown. If you’re taking a taxi, make sure it’s licensed and discuss pricing before handing over your luggage or getting in.

Household Goods Tips

As you begin to plan your move, consider:

• What do you need (what will really be useful in the new location)?
• What’s allowed (not forbidden by local law or custom)?
• What will your employer pay to transport?

Your Relocation Counselor can help you make these decisions.

Small Appliances

If you’re moving to a country with a different electric currency, you might find it’s not worth bringing small, inexpensive appliances along. Voltage converters are available; however, the appliances often still do not operate quite normally. In most typical global assignment destinations, suitable replacements can be found easily.

Sea vs. Air Transportation

Your company’s policy will determine how your goods will be shipped. Air shipment is costly; normally, you’re given a small allowance to cover essentials, such as clothing. Most of your goods will probably be shipped by sea. Discuss your needs with your Counselor and moving professionals.

Valued Inventory

Before packing, complete a thorough valued inventory, detailing each item in your shipment and its replacement value in the destination location. List small, miscellaneous items as a group. Your movers will provide more detailed information and forms.

The inventory will also help with customs matters, documenting what you’ve brought with you, and ensuring that you don’t have to pay duty on the items when you return. Forms are available from your national customs office.

Moving Checklist

Plan to be in your home while the movers are there (or nominate a responsible friend or relative).

• Valuable items, heirlooms, and especially fragile items should be identified early.
• Review the mover’s inventory list carefully; it will be used to verify any damage claims.
• Separate items earmarked for storage before the movers arrive. Mark “DO NOT TAKE” clearly.
• Appliances should be prepared for moving by a professional.
• Leave mirrors, pictures, and other wall hangings in place, to avoid damage.
• Make sure dishes and utensils are clean and in their usual place.
• When the packing is finished, take a careful look through every room, closet, garage, basement, etc. to be sure nothing has been missed.

When the move out is complete, take a walk through to make sure all doors and windows are closed and locked; lights are adjusted; the thermostat is set appropriately; and the security system is activated. Keys should be delivered to whomever will be managing the property.

Shipping Automobiles

The decision whether or not to ship your car depends on your company’s policy and local laws and regulations. In many cases, cars will not comply with destination area laws and regulations, and modifications are usually expensive or impractical.

Many countries honor the International Driving Permit, which you can get before leaving (often through your automobile club). Some countries require local licenses, especially for extended stays.

Pets

Some countries do not permit importation of animals; others impose lengthy quarantine requirements. Check your destination country’s requirements well in advance.

Skill Level: 2-3 Time Taken: A Couple Of Hours

By Bruce W. Maki, Editor

Question: What’s the first thing to do after you discover that your fuel oil furnace has conked out?

Answer: Start remodeling the basement, the basement stairwell, and anything between the furnace and the back door.

At least that was our approach when the old oil-burning monster died. We had been contemplating switching to propane, and this forced the decision.

The old furnace was quite large, about 3 feet wide by 6 feet long, and over 3 feet tall. Not being sure if it could be dismantled, we knew it would not fit up the basement stairs, through the door at the top of the stairs, and around the corner to go out the back door. It seems that about 10 to 12 years ago, long after the oil furnace and tanks were installed, the previous owner had built a dividing wall at the top of the stairs and installed a door. This created a small entry vestibule at the back door, but there was no way we could haul the furnace or oil tanks out with this partition in place.

Even if we wanted to keep a partition at the top of the stairs, the wall the previous owner built was so poorly constructed that we decided to tear it out and build something better.

So soon after the oil furnace died, while we waited for the heating contractor to fit us into their schedule, we demolished the partition and tore out all the wall surfaces around the stairwell. After opening up the stairs, we began to think about leaving the stairwell open, and building some shelving and storage into the area. But that is a project for another article.

It turned out that the old oil furnace was easy to dismantle. It was basically a sheet metal box surrounding a heavy steel heat exchanger. The heat exchanger was about one-fourth the size of the whole furnace, and was the largest and heaviest single piece. The two of us were able to haul it up the stairs with no problem.

But the oil tanks were another issue. These tanks were about 28 inches wide, 48 inches tall, and about 60 inches long. When the heating guy installed the new propane furnace, I mentioned how we would someday be hauling out the old oil tanks. He laughed and said “Don’t call me!”.

I figured I was in for a battle.

The oil tanks in the basement. Note all the concrete splattered on the tanks. A previous owner poured a concrete floor in the basement, but not under the tanks. The tanks rested on cement blocks placed on the original dirt floor.

I used a big 36″ aluminum pipe wrench to remove the fill and vent pipes.

Disconnecting the fill and vent piping was no small deal. The fill pipes were 2 inch diameter threaded steel pipe, and the vent was 1¼ inch pipe. After disconnecting the union fittings (the fitting in the picture above) I unscrewed whatever fittings and sections of pipe that I could turn. As a last resort, I could have simply cut all the pipe with my reciprocating saw, but unscrewing the pipes is faster.

Each tank had a shut-off valve at it’s outlet (note the red handles) though they were different types of valves. The larger red object in the right-hand photo contains a replaceable filter.

Using an adjustable wrench I removed the flare fittings that connected the copper tubing to the tee. I placed a small shallow container below the tubing to catch the oil.

I was able to remove the shut-off valves with a wrench. There was a ½ inch pipe thread on the other end of the valve, which later proved to be useful.

Not having a clue how to approach this, I tried lifting one of the tanks. To my surprise I was able to lift it by myself. I placed some blocks of wood under the steel “feet”.

Getting A Handle On Things:
I connected some short pieces of ½ inch black pipe to the drain line.
This will form a handle.

Outside, I removed a section of the fill pipe, and some elbows.

I attached some pieces of 1¼ inch pipe to the fill hole on the tank, to make an upper handle.

I had to buy an adapter to connect the 1¼ inch pipe to the 2 inch opening on the tank.

With these two handles attached to the tank, I was able to easily drag them across the basement floor. What I could not do was take a picture of myself doing that.

The monster challenge:
The basement stairs… with very low headroom.
There’s a couple of oil tanks that want to leave the basement.
I’m home alone, I won’t have any helpers for a couple of days and I don’t want to wait.

The view from the basement, looking up. The arrow points to the back door.

The monstrous solution:
Mechanical Advantage: With the tools I have, I can lift all sorts of things. I knew I could lift the tanks with a cable winch (a.k.a. “Come-Along”), but I needed an anchor point that was sturdy enough.

This door jamb was chosen for the job. I pried off the door stop trim and bolted this big automotive tow hook into the framing, using 6 inch lag screws.

This door jamb is just above the top of the stairs. The red arrow points to the hook.
I chose this anchor location because I realized that I could shoot a straight line from that door frame down to the bottom of the stairs.

The oil tank at the bottom of the stairs. Since the tanks were only about 28 inches wide, and the stairs were over 36 inches wide, I figured I would need to prevent the tank from slipping sideways.
So I placed a long 2×10 on the side of the stairs.

Using only muscle power I was able to get the tank started up the stairs, but no farther. Even with the convenient carrying handle, there was no way I could lift this 120 pound mass uphill.

The view from in the basement.

At this point I realized that the “handle” was going to hit the ceiling on the way up the stairs.

I used this short piece of 5/16 inch chain to provide a means of grabbing the oil tank.

To apply a uniform pulling force, I hooked the short chain to the front feet on the tank…

… and I hooked the cable winch to the mid point of this short chain. I knew that I needed to pull on the center of the tank, or else it would turn on me.

The other end of the winch was hooked to an extra-long section of 5/16″ chain, which was looped over the tow hook.
Of course, I began this operation with the winch’s cable fully extended.

I just cranked away on the winch and the tank moved up the stairs. But…

The tank kept leaning to the side, so made a “guardrail” by laying a 12-foot 2×10 on a short piece of wood (hidden below the near end of the plank). This short “outrigger” board was held in place with a couple of cement blocks.

It took only a few minutes to get the tank past the narrow headroom point.

At this point the cable winch had been completely wound up (the two red arrows point to the fixed and moveable parts of the winch, and they are close together).
I had to stop and reposition the chains.

Just in case…
I placed a long heavy steel bar under the short chain loop, to hold the tanks from sliding back down the stairs. But the back edge of the tank just happened to get wedged into place, so there was no weight placed on this chain.

I again extended the winch’s cable and connected it directly to the tow hook, and hooked the other end to the rusty old loop chain.

I continued to crank on the winch and the oil tank climbed higher up the stairs.

This was about as far as I could hoist the tank.
In this picture you can get a better idea of how the tank was rigged.

This is one of the four “feet” under the tank. These made convenient grab points for the hooks.

This picture was taken from just outside the back door.
With the chain and winch still connected, I swung the tank towards the back door and slid it outside.

These tanks were fairly easy to move around, though I couldn’t lift the entire weight. I was able to “walk” the tank by lifting one side and then the other.
Here I screwed some handles back in place to help move the tank.

The Damage Is Done:
However…
Moving these two oil tanks from the basement caused some damage. The stair treads got rather chewed up from the heavy weight being dragged across them.

The tank left some scratches on the basement floor (top arrow) and some small puddles of oil (bottom arrow). Oil spills won’t dry up, and they may leave an odor for many months.

I routinely use a spray can of automotive brake cleaner (which is very volatile and may be highly flammable) to remove oil spots from concrete. I spray the brake cleaner on the spot and immediately wipe it up with a paper towel. Brake cleaner removes most of the oil, but there is usually a slight stain on the concrete.

The door jamb was not as secure as I first thought. The jamb pulled away from the casing, leaving a gap (arrow).

But none of these minor problems were any cause for concern, because all of these areas either need remodeling or are utility spaces that don’t really matter. This is an important issue for many people, however, because not everybody is willing to remodel part of their house just to remove an oil tank.

The relevant point is: If a house has good finished surfaces between the oil tank and the back door, it would be wise to have several people available to help move the tank. Protective measures such as rugs or scraps of carpet could be employed to prevent damage.

The oil tank area after the tanks were removed. The corner was a mess. It had collected debris and junk for about half a century.

When I hauled away the tanks, I loaded them both in my tiny 4×8 utility trailer and strapped them in place with ratcheting tie-down straps.
I would have preferred to lay the tanks down, but they both would not fit, and I didn’t want to make two trips.

To keep the straps from slipping out of place, I threaded the straps through the holes in the feet.

Cleaning The Oil Tanks:
While this is probably not necessary, I attempted to clean the oil tanks, just to see if I could. I started by hauling the tanks far into the back yard. We live on an old farm, so there’s lots of open land here. I strapped each tank to my fridge dolly and hauled them out back beside my bonfire pit. Then I poured a gallon of mineral spirits into a garden sprayer (the sprayer instructions loudly warn against spraying combustible liquids, but… I live on the edge) and poked the sprayer nozzle into the various openings on the tanks. I sprayed the insides from top to bottom, then I flipped the tanks over a couple of times (end over end, to avoid spilling liquids). I drained the tanks over some newspapers and scraps of wood, so the liquid could be burned off. I suspect it’s better for the environment to burn such petroleum products rather than let them evaporate.

Next I poured about a quart of denatured alcohol into the garden sprayer and sprayed the alcohol. into the tanks to rinse away the mineral spirits and oil. This certainly helped, but a quart of alcohol was not enough to do the job. I drained the alcohol over the burn pile, rolled the tanks a safe distance away, and ignited the liquid waste.

Later, I put some Simple Green in the garden sprayer, not diluted at all. Simple Green seems to be a good water-soluble degreasing agent. I sprayed the insides of the tanks and then rolled the tanks around the hayfield, this time letting stuff come out the large holes on top. Large chunks of black charcoal-like gunk came out. I rinsed the tanks several times with a garden hose.

Now the tanks smelled of a combination of Simple Green AND fuel oil.

After I hauled away the tanks, the back yard smelled faintly of fuel oil. There were numerous spots of black oily gunk in the field. I used a propane torch to burn off these oily spots (being careful not to let grass fires get started), and that seemed to remove the odor.

Was this the best thing to do? I don’t know. If I was going to cut the tanks open, I could have wiped the insides clean with rags or newspapers.

Disposing Of Old Oil Tanks:
I was able to dispose of the old tanks at a local metal recycling company. Normally they require that all tanks be cut in half, but they made an exception for me because I had given them over 100 gallons of unused fuel oil. Besides, the manager knew somebody who might be able to use them, so they accepted the tanks intact.

I have seen people make large trailer-mounted barbecue grills from oil tanks. They cut the tank in two, turning the top half into a hinged lid, and install supports for metal grills. This was of no interest to me, but I seriously considered placing an advertisement in the local paper to give away these tanks. But… I just didn’t have the time to fool around with such things… I just wanted them gone. Whatever happens to these old tanks, at least the steel will be re-used or recycled.

Disposing of large items like oil tanks could be quite a problem. I doubt the garbage haulers would take an oil tank if you left it by the curb. It would be wise to find someone to take the oil tank before removing it from the house.

Cutting these tanks would be time-consuming, but not impossible. An oxy-acetylene torch immediately comes to mind, but I would NOT recommend using a torch to cut an oil tank. A cutting torch could easily ignite leftover fuel inside an oil tank, and any kind of fire inside an enclosed chamber could be explosive. Besides, there could be other liquid residues in the tank, liquids that are much more volatile than fuel oil.

I have cut plenty of heavy-gauge steel with my Sawzall. The trick to cutting (or drilling) heavy ferrous metals is :

Use a sharp, fine-toothed, metal cutting blade. Bi-metal blades are the best because the teeth are a harder metal than the blade body.
Use a slow cutting speed, to reduce overheating of the blade. The higher-priced Sawzalls have a control dial that limits the maximum speed. When cutting iron and steel, I use 3 on the scale of 1 to 5.
Push hard on the cutting tool.
Lubricate the HELL out of the cutter. I often use WD-40, but any oily substance will help. Plain water will work too, but it will rust the blade if not wiped off after use. Sometimes I use a waxy lube stick that is meant for lubricating doors and hinges. I keep a tube in the Sawzall case and just rub it on the blade. In a pinch, spitting on the blade is better than nothing. I’m not kidding!
In a nutshell: If you want to dull your cutting blades: cut ferrous metals at high speed, don’t push very hard, and don’t lubricate the cutter. The blade manufacturers will love you.
One problem with cutting these oil tanks would be the weld seams at the corners. When steel is welded the nearby metal becomes much harder, and the weld metal itself is usually very hard. I suspect this would destroy most reciprocating saw blades, even bi-metal blades. My approach would be to use an abrasive cutter in the weld area. I have an inexpensive pneumatic 3″ diameter abrasive disc cut-off tool. This tool only cost fifteen bucks, but it requires a large air compressor (this is perhaps the most powerful tool I have; it makes my 4 HP air compressor run nearly full time). An angle grinder would also work, or an abrasive blade could be used on a circular saw. In fact, the entire cut could be made with an abrasive metal-cutting blade mounted on a circular saw, but it might be slower than a Sawzall. Besides, these abrasive blades throw sparks, and too many sparks might ignite traces of oil in the tanks.

Don’t Be Stupid: Complete The Job!
I have heard stories in the past (there was one on the local news just the other day) about fuel oil being delivered to the wrong house. Free oil, no big deal, right? Unless the house had the oil tank removed.

Imagine coming home to find a couple of hundred gallons of smelly fuel oil in your basement. Yu-uck! What a mess. What a hassle. It would take forever to get rid of the odor.

Of course, this could only happen if someone removed the oil tank but didn’t remove the fill tube. That is simply dumb. If you are going to remove an oil tank, complete the job and remove the oil fill tube and vent tube. Or at least screw a pipe cap on the open end of the pipe down in the basement. Why leave an open access pipe into your house?

Fuel Oil and Fire Safety:
I’ve seen people who were afraid that fuel oil, kerosene or diesel fuel could explode. That is a clear sign of ignorance. Anybody who is familiar with these fuels knows that you can’t pay these fuels to burn, and explosive combustion is basically impossible. It is difficult to get fuel oil to burn; it has to be spread out in a thin layer, such as in a wick, or sprayed into a fine mist (which furnaces do). A puddle or container of oil just won’t burn readily.

I think one of the most appealing features of fuel oil is its high degree of safety.

BUT… fuel oil, kerosene or diesel could have other flammable liquids mixed in, so use extra caution if you are not certain of the origin of the oil. Any waste oil product could easily contain other more volatile liquids. For instance, used motor oil commonly gets mixed with a bit of gasoline because mechanics often use an oil drain pan to catch dripping gasoline.

Tools Used:
Pipe Wrenches, 24″, 36″
5/16″ Chain
2-Ton Ratcheting Cable Winch
Automotive Tow Hook

Another building problem has wiped out Fort Wayne Community Schools’ emergency funds.

“For the rest of the year, we’ll cross our fingers that we don’t have an emergency,” spokeswoman Krista Stockman said.

A leaking underground oil storage tank at Scott Academy has drained the remaining $56,000 set aside for such emergencies. The district began the year with $600,000 to spend but a tank removal at Pleasant Center Elementary and roof repairs at Harrison Hill Elementary took most of that money. The board is set to approve the work at Scott Academy, which has already begun, at its Monday meeting.

In the event of another emergency before January, Stockman said the district would have to dip elsewhere in its building fund, which is used to pay for equipment, technology, maintenance and security, as well as pre-planned projects. State law prevents the district from raiding other areas of its $284 million budget for building repairs.

“It’s not a secret that we have some problems with our buildings,” Stockman said. “If it was something catastrophic, we just plain wouldn’t have the money for that, and we would have to get real creative about what we’re going to do.”

A $500 million building renovation and expansion plan the district proposed a year ago to shore up its aging infrastructure was soundly defeated in a taxpayer remonstrance.

The district has long been concerned about what it calls a deteriorating heating system at Snider High School. “You still have to educate,” Superintendent Wendy Robinson said earlier this year. “People think, ‘Oh, you’re just crying wolf.’ It’s not in our best interest to disrupt the education of children.”

Stockman said planned projects or equipment purchases could be delayed in case of another emergency, but the cost of a large problem – even the size of Harrison Hill’s – could exceed those potential savings.

“That’s always a concern,” she said, “and that’s why we’ve been talking about a long-term plan.”

Last month, the board began discussion of a new long-term renovation plan, one that won’t give taxpayers sticker shock.

“I think we’re ready to go and explore and figure out how to do it in an affordable manner,” board President Mark GiaQuinta has said.

No details have been released, and no further discussions have been held since June 23.

Submitted by French & Parrello — Constructioneer, 7/21/2008

As our nation’s bridges come under increasing scrutiny, New Jersey agencies are taking action. At issue was bridge safety for two deteriorating spans in high traffic areas. The challenge was to maintain the historic character of the two bridges while updating them to current safety standards. The engineering firm of French & Parrello in Wall, NJ, met this challenge head on with advanced concrete technology that garnered the firm awards for both projects by the New Jersey chapter of the American Concrete Institute (NJACI) and the New Jersey Concrete and Aggregate Association (NJCAA).

The first bridge is a NJ Department of Transportation span on Route 202 over Mine Brook in Bernardsville Borough. It was a concrete arch bridge in a rural, but highly trafficked, area. Local residents wanted the replacement bridge to replicate the original as much as possible.

“Initially, we were considering staged construction for replacement of the bridge,” said Michael Troncone, P.E., Transportation Department director, French & Parrello. “But that would have had tremendous environmental repercussions. It would have required temporary widening and the cutting down of numerous trees, wetlands impacts and filling within a flood plain. Therefore, we had to close the bridge and detour the traffic.”

In order to minimize these closures, French & Parrello turned to precast concrete. The bridge was designed using precast inverted T-sections. Small cast-in-place closure pours in the footings were used to lock the precast sections together. Stone veneer from a local quarry was used on the exposed surfaces of the bridge to create the historic look.

The NJDOT required the project to be completed within nine weeks. The actual installation of the precast concrete took only a few days. The remainder of the time was for aerial utility relocations, road construction, drainage, grading, and placement of the stone veneer.

“The contractor finished three weeks ahead of schedule due to the decision to work with precast concrete,” acknowledges Troncone.

The second bridge is a 67-foot span on East Cliff Street over Peters Brook in Somerville Borough. The original bridge featured concrete balustrades within the parapets and on the arch. While the concrete slab arch had only minor spalling and some exposed reinforcing steel, the spandrel walls were bulging and leaking water. The challenge here was to replicate the architecturally significant balustrade parapets.

“It became apparent that concrete had to be used on this project,” explains Troncone, “so that the finished result would replicate the original bridge without indicating that it was rehabilitated.”

French & Parrello called for the removal of the original spandrel walls and installation of an anchor slab that was doweled into the top of the arch. Designers then called for pouring of new spandrel walls in front of the anchor slab. On top of the wingwalls and the new spandrel walls, the contractor placed a parapet that incorporated precast balustrades, precast planks and cast-in-place railing and pylons that replicated the look of the original bridge. A calcium nitrate-based corrosion inhibitor was added to the cast-in-place concrete to increase the service life of the rehabilitated concrete bridge components.

Also included in the work was rehabilitation of the arch extrados. A cement mortar parge coat was spread over the arch, and a membrane waterproofing applied. Porous fill (No. 8 broken stone) was used to fill the space above the arch to support the road bed.

Three different types of concrete repairs were also performed at various locations along the arch intrados and on the front face of the wingwalls. Quick-setting, non-sag patch concrete was used to repair surface scaling, concrete spalls and areas with exposed reinforcing steel. The team coated all exposed exterior surfaces with a flexible acrylic skim coat for a smooth, uniform appearance.

“A very valuable feature of concrete is that it can be formed in any shape desired,” said Troncone. “These projects validate the fact that concrete can be used to incorporate aesthetics in bridge design.”

For the first bridge, French and Parrello utilized 58 cubic yards of NJDOT Class A concrete, 212 linear feet of abutment and wingwall units, and 53 linear feet of culvert units for a cost of $1,242,421. For the second bridge, the firm repaired 995 square feet with 92 cubic yards of concrete plus 460 square yards of mortar parge coat. There was also 147 linear feet of balustrade railing.

The innovations in both bridges earned French & Parrello recognition by the concrete industry at the NJACI and NJCAA annual awards.

“We are pleased to be honored for these projects, which will ultimately make those areas in New Jersey a better place to live,” said Argo Parrello, president and CEO of French & Parrello.

The NJACI is an active organization of approximately 500 members who strive to further education in concrete technology throughout the state of New Jersey. Members include contractors, engineers, educators, concrete and concrete material suppliers, manufacturers of concrete-related products, and testing laboratories. For more information, visit www.njaci.com.

The NJCAA represents their members in areas of legislation and technical consultation. The group promotes the concrete and aggregate industry.

       The completion of The Washington Street Mixed Use Buildings
        makes LPCCD the largest USGBC LEED Homes provider in the State
        of New Jersey. These homes are also the only mixed-use LEED
        Homes in New Jersey and the first LEED Homes built in an urban
        area in the State. This program will include a ribbon cutting
        ceremony, tours of the building and remarks from several
        speakers.

WHO:   Stefan Pryor, Deputy Mayor for Economic Development, City of
        Newark
       Richard Osworth, Director of Community Resource, Acting
        Director of Housing Services, State of New Jersey Department
        of Community Affairs
       Mark Kabakow, Senior Relationship Manager, Wachovia Bank
       Joseph A. Forline, Vice President Customer Operations, PSE&G
       Carmen Rainieri, Board Member, United States Green Building
        Council – NJ Chapter

WHEN:  Thursday, July 24, 2008 at 10:30am

WHERE: 450-460 Washington Street (enter at West Kinney Street)
       Newark, New Jersey 07102

WHY:   The LEED Gold certified Washington Street Mixed Use Buildings
        will offer sustainable features that include Energy Star
        windows and appliances, bamboo flooring and cabinets, recycled
        concrete countertops, low VOC paints, low-flow water fixtures,
        dual flush toilets and solar power. These amenities benefit
        the homeowner and the environment as well as conserve energy,
        reduce energy costs and provide health benefits.

       LPCCD is a community development corporation with a mission to
        plan, design and develop a comprehensive arts and cultural
        district in Lincoln Park in Newark, New Jersey. The LPCCD
        project is one of the nation’s best practices in urban
        sustainable community development and is developing one of the
        nation’s first urban eco-villages. The organization is also
        hosting the 3rd Annual Lincoln Park Music Festival, a
        signature event in the City of Newark, designed to further
        revitalize the Lincoln Park community. Tours and week long
        festivities will be held from July 24 through July 27, 2008
        for visitors to experience the revival of this historic
        neighborhood. For more information visit  www.lpccd.org and
        call (973) 242-4144 for more information.

Lead can be found in many forms throughout the home: in paint, toys, dinnerware, dust that you track in from the outside with your shoes, and even your soil, which can pick up lead from exterior paint and past use of leaded car gasoline, says Gregg Steiner, president of Green Life Guru in Santa Monica, Calif.

Additionally, your older home may have plumbing with lead or lead solder that can leach the metal into your drinking water, and foods or liquids stored within lead crystal or lead-glazed pottery or porcelain containers can likewise be contaminated, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

One of the biggest sources of lead contamination is old paint. Many residences built prior to 1978 used lead-based paint, stain, varnish and shellac, which was nationally banned by the Consumer Products Safety Commission that year, says Lee Wasserman, president of LEW Corp., an environmental service provider in Mountainside, NJ.

“Hazards around these older homes include all painted surfaces that are cracking, chipping, flaking, peeling and chalking, and all friction and impact surfaces that have not been proven to be non-leaded,” Wasserman said. “The risk of lead poisoning is greater the older the home is. However all homes are potentially suspect to leaded products entering their environments.”

Lead is harmful to all humans, but especially children, who absorb more of it through their digestive tracts – between 30 to 75 percent, while adults absorb approximately 11 percent, says Debbie Lindgren, co-founder of Bluedominoes, Inc., a company dedicated to helping parents discover how environmental and dietary factors influence children’s health, behavior and learning.

Lindgren says that, according to the American Academy of Pediatrics, the Centers for Disease Control and the World Health Organization, lead exposure can cause significant neurodevelopmental effects, including weakness in attention, aggression, headaches, vomiting, nausea, constipation, antisocial/delinquent behaviors, hearing problems, poor hand-eye coordination, sleep disturbances, slowed growth, seizures and more.

The EPA reports that lead is ingested into the body when we put our hands or other objects covered with lead dust into our mouths, when children eat paint chips or soil that contains lead, or when we breathe in lead dust, particularly during remodeling projects that disturb painted surfaces.

Our team of experts understands the rules and regulations of the PUST program. With the help of the State’s program, SREC has developed our own program for homeowners to remove or abandon an old underground storage tank (UST) and an installation of a brand NEW oil tank, absolutely FREE. Planning on converting to gas or alternative energy? Not a problem, this program is also designed for just removing an underground storage tank as well. SREC will remove the old oil tank FREE of charge.

If you meet the following requirements, you are on your way to safeguarding your existing or new home CLEAR and FREE of any environmentally concerns that may have surfaced with continued use of an old UST.

Eligibility Requirements for the CLEAR and FREE Program:

[Requirements needed to remove and/or install your tank completely for FREE. If you don’t meet these exact requirements, additional charges will apply, and our sales team will discuss the charges with you.]

Have questions yet? Call our office and speak to one of our experts. 1-877-7-DEPEND or 973.458.1188

Here’s what SREC will do for you:

SREC recommends that your oil company complete a startup upon completion of the installation.

Eligibility Requirements for Flexible Schedule:

SREC requires that your project be coordinated with other projects in your town and surrounding towns so that two projects can be completed in one day. Consequently, SREC requires that the project not be rushed and provided ample time to schedule the work.

What does that mean?

In the towns that SREC is offering the CLEAR and FREE program, we typically complete at least 12 to 24 projects each year. That means that the typical waiting time once we receive the signed contract and obtain all approvals, is under 1 month.

** Restrictions apply: SREC requires the homeowner to pay $250.00 application fee if the homeowner is denied the grant money, or backs out of contract. Upon completion of project, a two party check (payable to SREC and the homeowner) will be issued, at which time the homeowner will sign over to SREC. We will reimburse the application fee of $250.00 at that time.

Costs that may be incurred:

Customer responsible to pay the following if applicable:

• Town or city permits if required (most require) — SREC will complete the permit application and submit.

• If the tank contains water or has been previously filled, and the tank was not cleaned properly and the soil is contaminated, customer is responsible to pay for disposal.

• Police and traffic control if required. Some towns/cities require a police officer to be on site if work is being done on a very busy road. Customer to pay police officer directly.

• Traffic signs if required.

Call and speak with one of our knowledgeable representatives to get more details. 1-877-7-DEPEND.

Serving New Jersey in Aldene, Allendale, Alpine, Arlington, Asbury Park, Atlantic Highlands, Avalon, Avon, Babbitt, Baltusrol, Bayonne, Bayway, Bedminster, Belleville, Belmar, Benders Corner, Bergen, Bergen County, Bergen Point, Bergenfield, Berkeley Heights, Berkeley Heights Township, Berkeley Township, Bernards Township, Bernardsville, Bloomfield, Bloomfield Township, Bloomingdale, Bloomingdale Borough, Bogota, Boonton, Boonton Township, Bradley Beach, Brick Township, Brielle, Brigantine, Budd Lake, Butler, Caldwell, Carlstadt, Carteret, Cedar Grove, Chatham Borough, ChathamTownship, Chester Borough, Chester Township, Clark, Cliffside Park, Clifton, Clinton, Closter, Closter Borough, Colts Neck, Communipaw, Cranbury, Crane Square, Cranford, Cranford Junction, Cresskill, Deal, Demarest, Denville Township, Dover, Morris County, Dover Township, Toms River, Ocean County, Dumont, Dunellen, East Brunswick, East Hanover, East Newark, East Orange, East Rutherford, Eatontown, Edgewater, Edgewater Park Township, Edison, Elizabeth, Elizabethport, Elmora, Elmwood Park, Emerson, Englewood, Englewood Cliffs, Englishtown, Essex County, Essex Fells, Essex Fells Borough, Fair Lawn, Fairfield, Fairview, Fanwood, Fanwood, Borough of, Fort Lee, Fort Monmouth, Franklin Lakes, Free Acres, Freehold Township, Garfield, Garwood, Glen Ridge Borough, Glen Rock, Grasselli, Guttenberg, Hackensack, Hackettstown, Hainesport, Haledon, Harrington Park, Harrison, Hudson County, Hasbrouck Heights, Haworth, Hawthorne, Hazlet, Highland Park, Highlands, Hillsdale, Hillside, Hoboken, Holmdel, Hopatcong, Howell, Hudson County, Irvington Township, Jamesburg, Jefferson Township, Jersey City, Kearny, Kenilworth, Kinnelon, Lake Como, South Belmar, Lakehurst, Lakewood Township, Leonia Borough, Liberty Square, Lincoln Park, Linden, Little Falls, Livingston, Lodi, Long Branch, Madison, Madison Hill, Mahwah, Manalapan, Manchester, Maplewood, Marlboro Township, Maywood, Mercer County, Metuchen, Middlesex Borough, Middlesex County, Middletown Township, Midland Park, Millburn, Millburn Township, Milltown, Monmouth County, Montclair, Montvale, Montville Township, Morris County, Morris Township, Mount Arlington, Mountainside, Murray Hill, Neptune City, Neptune Township, Netcong, Netherwood, New Brunswick, New Providence, Newark, Newton, North Bergen, North Brunswick Township, North Caldwell, North haledon, North Plainfield, Nutley, Oakland, Oakwood Park, Ocean County, Ocean Township (Monmouth County), Old Bridge Township, Old Tappan, Oradell, Overlook, Paramus, Park Ridge, Park Village, Parsippany, Passaic, Passaic County, Paterson, Perth Amboy, Perth Amboy Junction, Piscataway Township, Plainfield, Pompton Lakes, Prospect Park, Rahway, Ramsey, Randolph, Raritan Township, Ridgefield, Ridgefield Park, Ridgewood, Ringwood, River Edge, River Vale Township, Riverdale, Rochelle Park, Rockaway, Rockaway Township, Roseland, Roselle, Roselle Park, Roxbury Township, Rutherford, Saddle Brook, Saddle River, Scotch Plains, Seaside Heights, Seaside Park, Secaucus, Somerset County, South Bound Brook, South Brunswick, South Harrison Township. South Orange, South Plainfield, South River Borough, Springfield, Staten Island Junction, Stony Hill, Summit, Sussex County, Teaneck, Tinton Falls, Toms River (Township of Dover), Totowa, Tremley, Tremley Point, Tremont Park, Union, Union County, Union Square, Union Township, Union Village, Union City, Upper Freehold Township, Upper Saddle River, Vauxhall, Verona, Waldwick, Wall Township, Wanaque Borough, Washington Township (Bergen County), Washington Township (Morris County), Watchung, Wayne, Wayne Township, Weehawken, West Caldwell, West Milford Township, West Orange, West Paterson, Westfield, Westwood, Winfield, Woodbridge Fire Department.Woodbridge Township,Woodcliff Lake, Woodland Park, Wood-Ridge, and Wyckoff.

Serving New York State (Westchester County) in: Amawalk, Annsville, Archville, Ardsley, Ardsley-on-Hudson, Armawalk, Armonk, Arthur Manor, Banksville, Bayberry Park, Bedford, Bedford Center, Bedford Hills, Beech Hill, Beechmont, Beechmont Woods, Bonnie Crest, Boutonville, Briarcliff Manor, Bronxville, Bronxville Heights, Bryn Mawr Park, Buchanan, Buckhout Corners, Butlerville, Cecil Park, Cedar Knolls, Chappaqua, Chauncey, Chester Hill Park, Chimney Corners, Colonial Acres, Colonial Heights, Crestwood, Crestwood Gardens, Crompond, Cross River, Croton Falls, Croton Heights, Croton-on-Hudson, Crotonville, Crugers, Dobbs Ferry, Dunwoodie, Dunwoodie Heights, East Irvington, East White Plains, East Woods, Eastchester, Eastview, Elmsford, Elmsmere, Fairview, Fleetwood, Forest Knolls, Fox Meadow, Furnace Woods, Gallows Hill, Glendale, Glenville, Glenwood, Goldens Bridge, Graham, Granite Springs, Grant Corner, Greenhaven, Greenville, Grey Oaks, Greystone, Gunther Park, Harrison, Hartsdale, Hastings-on-Hudson, Hawthorne, Heath Ridge, Heathcote, Heritage Hills, Homestead Park, Horseshoe Hill, Horton Estates, Huguenot Park, Isle of San Souci, Jefferson Valley, Katonah, Kitchawan, Lake Katonah, Lake Lincolndale, Lake Mohegan, Lake Purdy, Larchmont, Lawrence Park, Lewisboro, Lincoln, Lincolndale, Lowerre, Ludlow, Mamaroneck, Maplewood, Mariandale, Millwood, Milton, Mohegan Heights, Mohegan Lake, Montrose, Mount Airy, Mount Hope, Mount Kisco, Mount Pleasant, Mount Vernon, Murdock Woods, Murray Hill, Nepera Park, Nepperhan, New Rochelle, North Salem, North White Plains, Oceola Lake, Orienta, Oscawana, Ossining, Park Hill, Parkside, Peekskill, Pelham, Pelham Manor, Philipse Manor, Pinebrook, Pinebrook Heights, Pleasantside, Pleasantville, Pocantico Hills, Port Chester, Pound Ridge, Purchase, Purdys, Purdys Grove, Quaker Ridge, Quarry Heights, Residence Park, Ridgeway, Rochelle Heights, Rochelle Park, Roe Park, Rosedale, Rye, Rye Brook, Salem Center, Sarles Corners, Scarborough, Scarsdale, Scarsdale Downs, Scarsdale Park, Scotts Corners, Secor Gardens, Shenorock, Sherman Park, Shore Acres, Shrub Oak, Sleepy Hollow, Sleepy Hollow Manor, Somers, South Salem, Sparta, Spring Valley, Stanwood, Sun Haven, Sunny Brae, Tarrytown, Thornwood, Toddville, Tompkins Corners, Tuckahoe, Twin Lakes Village, Valhalla, Valley Pond Estates, Van Cortlandtville, Vernon Park, Verplanck, Victory Park, Vista, Waccabuc, Waverly,West Mount Vernon, White Birches, White Plains, Whitehall Corners, Wilmot Woods, Windmill Farm, Woodlands, Woodybrook, Worthington, Wykagyl, Wykagyl Park, Yonkers, Yorktown, and Yorktown Heights.

Need to know: Not all how-to books are the same. Some dwell on the writer’s experience; others are limited to a particular topic, such as electricity or plumbing; many are just design books with pretty pictures. Greatest value for the money comes in books that provide insight into a variety of topics, are useful when you’re making minor alterations and repairs, or give background knowledge for when you deal with contractors or salespeople, so you don’t sound stupid.

Buyer beware: More than three decades of home-improvement TV has transformed the how-to book from unillustrated, wordy tome into picture book with expanded captions. But another result is celebrities lending their names to works actually penned by kids just out of college who wouldn’t recognize a reciprocating saw if they saw one. Don’t be fooled by a familiar face on the cover. It’s what’s inside that counts.

Web extras: How-to books have a short shelf life, primarily because products and tools change almost daily, and thus techniques do too. Many publishers now use Internet sites to provide continuing updates to their books, including animated step-by-step instructions and how-to videos, as well as links to products and services. Books with those add-ons are good buys.

The classics: These should be on every bookshelf.

– “Home Book” (Creative Homeowner Press, $40). A lot of do-it-yourself books assume the reader either has experience or will get better over time. This one does neither. It doesn’t shy away from complicated projects, such as installing a window or building a deck. But it also knows what’s most important to a typical homeowner, devoting several pages at the beginning to dealing with household emergencies — what to do in a power outage, for example. It provides basics on hand and power tools, but focuses on what you need to know rather than what is interesting to the writer. For the big stuff, there’s a remodeling guide that focuses on hiring professionals and, if necessary, resolving disputes with them.

– “Reader’s Digest’s New Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual” ($29.95) goes a bit deeper into tools, including use and maintenance, and has more complicated projects for the high-end DIY type.

– “Reader’s Digest’s New Fix-It-Yourself Manual” ($35) is a rehab of the 1977 edition, dropping sections on auto maintenance and bookbinding in favor of VCR and teddy-bear repair. It’s simple, well-illustrated and, at 448 pages, thorough.

– “Outdoor Projects 1-2-3,” from Home Depot and Meredith Books ($24.95), is a volume of few words and many illustrations. Its chief selling point is its “Skill Scale,” which gauges how long a job will take based on your level of expertise. For example: “Building a patio roof requires carpentry skills. It will take 40 hours for the experienced person, 60 for those with intermediate skills, and 80 for the beginner.”

– “Reviving Your House: 500 Inexpensive and Simple Solutions to Basic Home Maintenance Issues” by Alan Dan Orme (Storey Books, $14.95). This is a must-buy. It will help you develop a checklist for keeping your house whole.