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Ask Barbara: Was oil tank ever on property? Have it checked out

Question: I’m considering buying a 1950s house on Long Island. There’s a vent pipe from an old oil tank visible on the property next to the base of the home. The current owner maintains the house has always been fueled by gas. She has lived there over 10 years. She cannot produce certification that the tank was removed or abandoned properly. The home inspector could not find evidence of a tank ever having been in the basement or a fill cap anywhere outside. How do I find out if an old oil tank is still there now or if it was removed properly? And if I can’t find proof one way or the other, should this be a deal breaker?

Answer: You don’t want to buy a property where there’s even the smallest chance of an environmental hazard. If you’re serious about the property, get another inspection by a licensed engineer and make it the seller’s problem to resolve it by making it a contingency in the contract of sale. If the seller cannot provide legal documentation about whether an oil tank is or isn’t there, then you can walk away from the deal.

Question: I’m having trouble finding tenants for my Washington, D.C., area rental property. Real estate agents have listed my property, we’re on Craigslist, in The Washington Post and registered with Section 8 in my area. I did the right thing by having a good cash reserve to begin with, but I’m sinking fast having to supplement the rent for the empty apartments. 

Answer: This doesn’t sound like an advertising issue, it sounds like a property issue. Tenants want clean, freshly painted apartments in good condition, with new fixtures and appliances. And rent prices have fallen, so consider offering concessions like a half or full month’s free rent to entice potential renters. When you make an apartment more appealing than all the rest, you’ll more than make up these investments with a group of happy, stable tenants over the long haul.

Question: My wife and I have been ­married for 31 years and have always rented a house. Now we’ve saved enough to buy a nice home with no mortgage. However, some people have advised us to obtain a small mortgage since we may need money for unpredicted home repairs, increases in insurance, electricity, heating, property taxes and other living expenses. They also said we’d be losing the “interest” income you normally collect from savings, which could be used for improving our retirement years. We’ll probably both retire in about six years and will be living on my government pension and our Social Security checks. What would you advise?

Answer: I’d shop around for a home that’s either new or in very good condition to avoid those unforeseen repairs. Find out about any hidden problems or potential problems by getting the house inspected before you sign the contract. Figure out what your income will be once you’ve retired and make sure it will cover your monthly housing expenses of taxes, insurance and utilities. Plus, add a little extra onto your monthly expenses for the first year of living in your new home. I guarantee you’ll need all kinds of tools and accessories that you haven’t thought of — especially since you’re going from an apartment to a house. As for the mortgage issue, you’ll get the accompanying tax benefit while you’re both working if you take out a small, short-term mortgage. Use your retirement date as measurement for the size of the mortgage you take out — you’ll want to have that mortgage paid off by the time you retire. Once you’re on a fixed income, you’ll want to minimize your monthly costs and a mortgage you don’t need should be the first to go!

Question: I am contemplating purchasing a condo in the East Harlem neighborhood of New York City as an investment. Do you think it is a good idea, especially now that the developers are so willing to negotiate?

Answer: Now’s a great time to get a deal on many new condos in New York City. Some sponsors have a lot of unsold units and big loans to pay off and they’re very eager to sell. You can negotiate on price and the closing costs, which are substantial. State and city transfer taxes alone add up to almost 2% of the purchase price, unless you work that into the deal. I will caution you to buy only if you’re looking to hold on to the property for at least five years so you can ride out this bear market. And make sure you know what you can rent the place for so you can cover your costs. As far as Harlem goes, it’s a great place to buy real estate if you can negotiate a bottom-line price that will make your monthly payments less than what you would pay for a rental.

Question:  If a home in Indiana is listed for $169,900, is there a percentage you can take off the price or is it just based on the other, similar houses in the area? I watch you on the “Today” show and thought I remembered you saying there is a percentage that homeowners mark up their property. We started our bid at $155,500. The appraised value in ’08 was $149,900, so how could it have gone up $20,000?

Answer: There are no rules regarding how owners price their home. Your opening offer is a good one and the sellers would be nuts not to counter. It’s unlikely the home’s value has gone up 13% since last year, so it seems to me that the owners have priced their house so they could negotiate with a buyer like you. Don’t forget that you and the seller set the value when you agree on a price. If you’re less than $15,000 apart, just stick to your guns and you should be able to buy it for somewhere between the asking price and your bid.

(This is taken from nydailynews.com)

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Olympic Specials from Google! Must See!

Google’s Olympic Specials

Today is the day of the Beijing 2008 Olympic opening ceremony. Already, Google launched multiple special sites and services for the Olympics. Thanks to everyone providing pointers for this!

Google’s main Olympics site

Google’s main Olympics page has different designs depending on the country. The China homepage is more colorful than the US homepage. In the US, you can launch videos, gadgets, and see the current medals won overlaid on a Google Map (the latter is also featured on a standalone page). There are stories collected via Google News as well.

YouTube’s special Olympics channel

The YouTube Olympics channel is only available in some countries, being geo-IP-banned elsewhere. “The IOC’s [International Olympic Committee] Channel will be accessible in territories where digital VOD [video on demand] rights have not been sold or have been acquired on a non-exclusive basis,” the press release explains.

+ The countries where this channel shows are…

Afghanistan, Angola, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Benin, Bhutan, Botswana, Brunei, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Comoros, Congo, The Democratic Republic Of The Congo, Ivory Coast, Djibouti, East Timor, Equatorial Guinea, Ethiopia, Gabon, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, India, Indonesia, Iran Islamic Republic Of, Iraq, Kenya, Democratic People’s Republic Of Korea, Kuwait, People’s Democratic Republic Lao, Lesotho, Liberia, Madagascar, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Mali, Mauritania, Mauritius, Mongolia, Mozambique, Myanmar, Namibia, Nepal, Niger, Nigeria, Oman, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea, Qatar, Republic of Korea, Rwanda, Saudi Arabia, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Swaziland, Syrian Arab Republic, United Republic Of Tanzania, Thailand, Togo, Uganda, United Arab Emirates, Vietnam, Yemen, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

A special Google Olympics logo

The Olympics doodle links to a search for the words Beijing 2008 Olympic Games. Shown in the logo are the Beijing mascots Beibei, Jingjing, Huanhuan, Yingying and Nini, who together spell “Bei Jing Huan Ying Ni” – “welcome to Beijing”. They carry the Olympic flag, which contains rings representing the world’s continents.

Talking about mascots, the two avatars above are not for the Olympics… they’re virtually “patrolling” the web and showing up on sites, likely to show users who’s in charge (in China, what you may or may not say online is part of a controlled system, where e.g. loudly protesting against human rights violations may be censored).

Gold medal count onebox

Searching for e.g. italy olympics or german olympics aims to show the Gold medals won by the respective country in the form of a onebox (a special Google result). The box is linked to the offical Olympics homepage at Beijing2008.cn.

Upcoming contests onebox

As previously mentioned, another onebox in results pop up when entering queries like taekwondo olympics, though it doesn’t work in every country (I added the “gl=us” parameter to the search URL here so you can see it).

+ The available sports are…

Archery, Athletics, Badminton, Baseball, Basketball, Beach Volleyball, Boxing, Canoe/Kayak Flatwater, Canoe/Kayak Slalom, Cycling BMX, Cycling Mountain Bike, Cycling Road, Cycling Track, Diving, Equestrian, Fencing, Football, Gymnastics Artistic, Gymnastics Rhythmic, Trampoline, Handball, Hockey, Judo, Modern Pentathlon, Rowing, Sailing, Shooting, Softball, Swimming, Synchronized Swimming, Table Tennis, Taekwondo, Tennis, Triathlon, Volleyball, Water Polo, Weightlifting, and Wrestling.

Google China SMS alerts

China has a page where you can subscribe to SMS alerts in a variety of sports categories.

SketchUp 3D models

The Google 3D Warehouse, which features models for SketchUp and Google Earth, has a selection of architecture related to the summer games.

A YouTube video takes you through the 3D-scenery (corny music alert level raised to orange).

LaiBa Olympics page

Google-powered community Tianya LaiBa has a special page for the Olympics. Social boards like LaiBa are sometimes in contact with the Chinese authorities to receive orders what can and cannot be discussed. For instance (according to a source who likes to remain anonymous and with help of auto-translation), in 2004 one University’s discussion board received instructions which included that “criticizing Taiwan independence” was OK but that no one should “incite group activities.” Google does not tell the press how such communications take place specifically.

iGoogle gadget

Google offers a summer games gadget that’s supposed to show competition results as they come in. (The iGoogle.com gadget search when I tried it here did not return any results for either olympic, olympics or beijing, which felt broken. The iGoogle gadget Sports category turned up completely empty.) There is no specific air pollution gadget available specifically for Beijing but Google Earth has a way to show pollution since 2007. Ex-Google employee Ana Yang snapped some photos in China showing not exactly “blue sky days,” as she says (any expert out there who knows how much is fog, if any, and how much is smog?).

Mobile page

Google’s Olympics mobile page offers results for the different sports. Google’s mobile page shows the special Olympics doodle, too (albeit it’s not optimized for that size).

iGoogle China

Google’s iGoogle homepage for China shows a special theme and an Olympics gadget.

Google News Olympics section

Google News presents a category dedicated to the Olympics, containing news coverage from traditional news sources as well as some multi-author blogs, an Olympic medals overview, and schedules for the upcoming events. (The Chinese version of Google News is partly censored by Google.)

Google Desktop gadget

The 2008 Summer Games gadget for Google Desktop contains schedules, results and medal counts, as the description explains.

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Information Concerning the “Confirming a Release from Federally Regulated Underground Storage Tank Systems” Form

Confirming a Release from Federally Regulated Underground Storage Tank Systems

The Federal Energy Policy Act of 2005 requires the NJ Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) to report on sources and causes of releases from Federally regulated underground storage tank (UST) systems. In order to comply with these reporting requirements, the DEP has developed procedures to gather data for each new release from a Federal UST.

All parties conducting remediation at a site with Federally regulated USTs shall complete the Federal UST Release Reporting Form and submit with any initial Remedial Investigation Report submitted to comply with N.J.A.C. 7:14B-8.3.

Applicability and Summary of Regulated Underground Storage Tanks in New Jersey

Substance Stored/
Used
Tank
Capacity *
Applicable
Law(s)
Comments/Explanations
Heating oil for sale, distribution or commercial use any amount Federal & state UST laws Fuel oil dealers, and others who sell, distribute, or use heating oil in a commercial process, must comply.
Heating oil for non-residential heating more than 2,000 gallons State UST law Facilities with aggregate UST capacities of 2,000 gallons or less are exempt from the state UST law. Heating oil tanks of any size used for residential heating are also exempt. 
Motor fuels for non-residential use or sale any amount Federal and state UST laws Includes petroleum products used in the operation of a motor: gasoline, diesel, aviation, gasohol, etc.
Motor fuels for farm or residential use more than 1,100 gallons Federal and state UST laws USTs located at a residence but used for business purposes are required to comply. Owners of farm USTs should contact the DEP at the number below for special applicability information. 
Waste oil any amount Federal and state UST laws Waste oil includes used automotive crankcase oil and other used lubricating oils. 
Hazardous wastes any amount State UST law Although they are not regulated by the federal UST law, hazardous wastes are regulated by Subtitle C of the Resource Conservation and Recovery Act (42 U.S.C. §6921). For hazardous waste classification and technical assistance, contact the DEP’s Hazardous Waste Technical Assistance unit at 609/292-8341. 
Other hazardous substances any amount Federal and state UST laws A list of hazardous substances is available by calling DEP’s Discharge Prevention Program at (609) 633-0610 or downloading Appendix A of N.J.A.C. 7:1E at http://www.nj.gov/dep/rpp/brp/dp/dpdown.htm

Definition of Terms

Sources of Federal Release

  • Tank: This term means the tank that stores the product and is part of the underground storage tank system.
  • Piping: This term means the piping and connectors running from the tank or submersible turbine pump to the dispenser or other end-use equipment. It does not include vent, vapor recovery, or fill lines.
  • Dispenser: This term includes the dispenser and equipment used to connect the dispenser to the piping. For example, a release from a suction pump or components located above the shear valve would be considered a release from the dispenser.
  • Submersible Turbine Pump (STP) Area: This term includes the submersible turbine pump head (typically located in the tank sump), the line leak detector, and the piping that connects the submersible turbine pump to the tank.
  • Spill Bucket: A product tight chamber that surrounds the fill port riser. It is designed to capture any product that may spill when disconnecting the delivery truck hose from the UST fill port riser.
  • Vapor Recovery System: Any component of the tank system designed to recover gasoline vapors generated when filling a vehicle’s fuel tank (stage II vapor recovery). This system, depending on design, can include associated hoses, piping and/or drop tank.
  • Vent Pipe: A pipe that lets air enter an UST when product is dispensed.
  • Fill Port/Fill Lines: The end of the drop tube at ground surface where product is introduced to an UST. This includes remote fill ports and associated piping connected to the UST.
  • Delivery Problem: This term identifies releases that occurred during product delivery to the tank. Typical causes associated with this source are spills and overfills.
  • Other: Use this option when the release source does not fit into one of the above categories. For example, releases from vent lines, vapor recovery lines, and fill lines would be included in this category.

Cause of Federal Release

  • Spill: Use this cause when a spill occurs. For example, spills may occur when the delivery hose is disconnected from the fill pipe of the tank or when the nozzle is removed from the vehicle at the dispenser.
  • Overfill: Use this cause when an overfill occurs. For example, overfills may occur from the fill pipe at the tank or when the nozzle fails to shut off at the dispenser.
  • Physical or Mechanical Damage (Phys/Mech Damage): Use this cause for all types of physical or mechanical damage except corrosion as described below. Some examples of physical or mechanical damage include: a puncture of the tank or piping, loose fittings, broken components, and components that have changed dimension (for example, elongation or swelling).
  • Corrosion: Use this cause when a metal tank, piping, or other component has a release due to corrosion (for steel, corrosion takes the form of rust). This is a specific type of physical or mechanical damage.
  • Installation Problem: Use this cause
  • Other: Use this option when the cause is known, but does not fit into one of the above categories. For example, accidentally or intentionally putting regulated substances into a monitor well would be included in this category.
  • Unknown: Use this option only when the cause is not know

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Moving Tips for Homeowners, Renters, and Global Assignees

For Homeowners

Relocation brings much excitement and many things to accomplish in a short time. Surely one of the most consuming tasks is selling your current home and finding a new one. These tips will help you to sell your current home quickly, for the best price possible, and to find the perfect home in your new location.

Marketing Your Home

Your agent should provide you with a comprehensive, week-by-week marketing plan for your home. This can include:

  • Local advertising
  • Internet listings
  • Open houses
  • Broker open houses (to expose your home to other real estate professionals)

Your agent should keep careful records of all prospective buyers and share his or her feedback with you. He or she should work closely with you throughout the process, adjusting the marketing plan as needed.

Pricing Your Home

Your agent will help you set an asking price for your home. Many outside factors can affect the value of your property:

  • Supply and demand
  • Mortgage rates
  • Economic conditions
  • Time of year
  • Property tax rates and local services
  • Neighborhood characteristics.

Agents review recent sales of similar properties in your area to help them arrive at a price. Your company might require one or more formal appraisals along with this “broker market analysis” (BMA). Appraisers look at recent sales, but also analyze square footage, features, finishes, and other details, and make adjustments for differences.

While you might have a price in mind, remember that the local market ultimately dictates the value of your home. Overpricing is more likely to scare prospective buyers away than to result in more money in your pocket. Appropriately priced homes sell quickly, reducing your stress and helping you settle in at the new location sooner.

Showing Your Home

It’s best to show your home while it’s still occupied. Many buyers have a hard time imagining what a vacant home will look like when it’s furnished.

With today’s busy lifestyles, few buyers have the time or inclination to take on a fixer-upper. Your home should shine, inside and out. Your agent will offer suggestions on sprucing up your home. Don’t take this personally; view it as objective marketing advice. Consider the following:

 

Exterior

  • Your lawn should be well manicured. Trim trees and shrubs and remove lawn debris. In the winter, make sure your driveway and walkways are free of ice and snow.
  • Make the entrance to your home as inviting as possible. Consider a fresh coat of paint on the front door and perhaps a pot or two of flowers.
  • Make sure your roof is in good shape. If necessary, paint exterior walls and replace damaged or loose shutters, shingles,and bricks.
  • Check exterior handrails, stairs, screens, and screen doors.
    Interior

  • Your entryway should be bright, clean and inviting.
  • Your kitchen and bathrooms should sparkle at all times. This can be a burden; if you don’t have cleaning help, consider it during this critical marketing period.
  • Unpleasant odors will turn buyers off immediately. Be certain that your home smells fresh and clean before prospective buyers arrive. Some agents suggest temporarily boarding animals.
  • Eliminate clutter, including closets, cellar and garage. Prepare for your move by donating excess items to charity.
  • Open shades and drapes to maximize light.
  • Clean carpeting and windows thoroughly.
  • If you decide to repaint or recarpet, choose soft, neutral tones.
  • Replace burned-out light bulbs and repair any faulty switches. Correct crooked light fixtures.

If you would like more specific help in preparing your home for showings, consider the services of the “home stager” provided for you by your agent!

Repairs and Improvements

It’s important to make minor repairs but discuss any major improvements with your agent. Some might not add enough value to your home to justify the expense.

Fixtures/Personal Property

Understanding the difference between fixtures and personal property will help you avoid potential problems. Buyers assume fixtures will stay with the property; personal property can be a negotiating point.

Fixtures
A fixture is an item that is permanently attached to your home, such as wall-to-wall carpeting, television antennas, ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, and built-in appliances. If you plan to remove any fixtures, such as chandeliers, be sure to advise your agent.Personal Property
Personal property is not attached to the property; it includes custom-made draperies, appliances, patio furniture, and the like. If you intend to leave personal property behind, be sure to clarify this with your agent.

Disclosure

By law, sellers must disclose all relevant property conditions and defects of which they’re currently aware of or of which they reasonably should have been aware. Failure to disclose constitutes fraud, and a buyer can sue a seller for any oversights or misrepresentations. Many buyers hire professionals to inspect properties they’re considering.

Be sure to advise your agent of any issues related to:

  • Structural integrity (roof, foundation, etc.)
  • Systems (electrical, plumbing, septic, etc.)
  • Water penetration
  • Flooding and drainage
  • Municipal requirements
  • Toxic substances

Buying a Home

Your Real Estate Firm

Let your agent work for you. He or she will be your eyes and ears in the new location, providing all the information you need before your homefinding trip. Your agent should keep you informed and help you manage the details.

Selecting a Neighborhood and Home

The house you’re buying now is the house you’ll be selling in the future. Your Relocation Counselor will work closely with you and your agent to ensure the property and purchase terms are in your best interest.

The old real estate adage of “location, location, location” is still true. Whether or not you have children, the areas with the best school systems, services and amenities tend to have the highest resale values.

Traditional neighborhoods and popular local styles are more likely to sell in less time and attract more buyers.

Well-maintained, aesthetically pleasing homes are more likely to hold their value.

What to Avoid

  • Because new construction sells at a premium, it often loses value for the first few years. Also, if the home is not complete yet, your move will be much more complex and stressful than necessary. In a relocation situation, new construction is best avoided.
  • Environmental problems (toxic waste sites, buried oil tanks) and properties containing toxic substances (asbestos, radon, lead paint) should be avoided at all costs. For your protection, your Relocation Counselor will suggest several property inspections. For more about environmental hazards, visit www.epa.gov
  • Properties with excess acreage or that have been over-improved for the area can be difficult to re-sell.

Let your home finding real estate agent work for you. The agent will be your eyes and ears in the new location, providing all the information you need prior to scheduling your home finding trip. You have the right to demand a high level of service, to be kept informed, and to expect your agent to follow up on all the details for you.

The Law of Agency

Agency is the relationship created when one person (the principal) delegates to another (the agent) the power to act on his or her behalf in a transaction. Most purchase agreements explain agency and the relationship between the agent(s) and the seller.

A real estate broker typically represents the seller. This is true whether or not the agent is the listing agent. However, Codes of Ethics require your agent to act in a fair and ethical manner to all parties involved in a transaction. Unless a buyer has entered into a specific employment agreement with a real estate agent, that agent works for the seller. The best course of action is to ask your agent whether or not he or she is a subagent of the listing agent.

As a buyer, you may enter into an agreement with an agent which states that the agent works solely on your behalf. This is called Buyer Brokerage, and in some parts of the country the agent is paid by the buyer, and the compensation is agreed upon between these two parties. In this type of arrangement, the agent will look for properties that meet your requirements, then attempt to negotiate price and terms favorable to you.

What to Look For. . .

Always view the home you are considering as the home you may be selling in the future, should you be relocated or move for other reasons. To help you better assess a potential home purchase, your Relocation Counselor will work closely with you and your agent to assure the property and terms of the purchase are in your best interest.

The old real estate adage of “location, location, location” continues to be of primary importance when making a purchase decision. Be sure your real estate agent is concentrating on those locations deemed most desirable for their neighborhood amenities and services and their consistently high resale values.

The best school systems, reasonable property taxes, and public utilities will all contribute to a better quality of life and good resale potential.

Don’t be drawn in by unique properties or locations. Conforming neighborhoods and local traditional styles are more likely to sell in less time and attract more buyers. While you may be competing with other relocating purchasers for properties of this type the investment will be worth the time and effort.

Homes that have been well-maintained and are aesthetically pleasing are more likely to sustain their value in the long run.

…What to Avoid

If there’s a possibility that you will be relocating within five years, avoid new construction. Historically, new construction loses value over the first five years, and you may end up owing more than the property is worth.

Environmental problems (toxic waste sites, buried oil tanks) and properties containing toxic substances (asbestos, radon, lead paint) should be avoided at all costs. Your Relocation Counselor will suggest certain inspections be performed to ensure that the selected property is free of these problems.

Properties with excess acreage or that have been over-improved for the area can be questionable investments at best. While they may offer desired amenities and appeal, the potential for future resale problems is increased.

While condominiums and cooperatives appeal to those not interested in the usual maintenance and upkeep associated with traditional homes, their resale history has been disappointing. Whether the result of the homeowners association management, restrictions and bylaws, maintenance and construction issues, or market saturation, these are typically not your best real estate investment.

Disclosure

Real estate transactions are governed by laws and regulations designed to protect the interests of both sellers and buyers. Every home seller has certain duties and obligations to a buyer, including full disclosure of all known defects, or defects that should have been known. Failure to disclose all known facts regarding a property constitutes fraud, and as a buyer you have certain rights in this regard.

Before agreeing to purchase a property, ask your agent to secure the seller’s “Disclosure Checklist.” The usual areas of concern are:

  • structure
  • systems (electrical, plumbing, heating, septic, etc.)
  • water penetration
  • flooding and drainage
  • municipal requirements
  • toxic substances

Settling In

Your agent can provide you with a tour of the new area, tailored to your personal needs and lifestyle. Most real estate companies also offer newcomer information packages, and can recommend local professionals (doctors, lawyers, hairdressers, cleaners, etc.) to help you settle into your new area.

For Renters

Selecting the right rental home will go a long way towards ensuring your happiness in your new location. Finding a property that meets your needs and budget can be tricky, though. These will help you determine what’s most important to you and help you navigate your way through the rental process.

Finding Your Rental Home and Preparing for Your Homefinding Trip

Assessing Your Needs

The key to successful homefinding is carefully assessing your needs before your first homefinding trip. This way, you’ll know exactly what you’re looking for-and what you want to avoid. Your Real Estate Agent should provide detailed information on your destination area prior to your homefinding trip, helping you maximize your time and efforts.

One of the most important steps in finding your new home is knowing exactly how much rent you can afford. A good rule of thumb is that your rent should be no more than 30 percent of your gross monthly income (although there are, of course, exceptions to this rule). Weichert can assist you in evaluating the amount of rent you can afford.

It is also important to remember that renters are often required to pay a security deposit (usually one month’s rent) before they can move in. Additionally, some renters are required to pay their last month’s rent in advance. This is often the case when renting a single family home from a private owner.

A rental application fee, which can cost between $15 to $100 to process, is usually required as well.

Inspecting Properties

When you’ve found a property that meets your needs, examine it carefully before you sign a lease.

  • Windows should open, lock properly, and have screens.
  • Sliding glass doors should open cleanly. Screens should be operable and intact.
  • Check the roof for missing or curled shingles and ceilings and walls for water marks and other signs of leaks.
  • Check plumbing and water pressure by flushing the toilet and running the faucets.
  • Make sure any included kitchen appliances work properly (range, refrigerator, dishwasher, garbage disposal, etc.)

Before You Sign a Lease

Once you’ve decided on a property, the landlord will probably ask you to fill out a rental application. This form will request information such as:

  • Names, addresses, and phone numbers of previous and current employers and landlords
  • Salary history
  • Banking information
  • Credit card information
  • Social security number
  • Personal (non-work related) references

This information allows the landlord to check your credit history (usually through a credit bureau) and your relationships with former landlords.

Rental Agreement or Lease

Before you occupy your new rental property, you will be asked to sign either a rental agreement or a lease. A lease specifies a fixed term and monthly payment, for example, a one-year lease at $1,000 per month. Rental agreements are sometimes known as “month-to-month” arrangements. Either you or the landlord may end the arrangement at any time with proper notice (specific notice requirements vary by location). Similarly, the landlord can adjust the rent with proper notice (again, the laws and regulations vary by area.) A lease is usually the more favorable option, as it guarantees a fixed rent for a longer period. However, if you are uncertain how long you will be renting, a rental agreement offers more flexibility.

Lease Basics

A lease is a binding legal document that states that a tenant can occupy property owned by the landlord under specified conditions. Although leases vary, they usually specify the following:

  • A full description of the rental property
  • The amount of each rent payment and the due date, including late charge and grace period information
  • The amount of the security deposit, and the conditions under which it might be retained by the landlord
  • Services to be provided by the landlord (landscaping, repairs, etc.) and tenant responsibilities
  • Rules and regulations that the tenant is expected to follow while renting the property
  • Available amenities or services (trash removal, swimming pool, laundry facilities)

Clauses Requiring Your Attention

One of the most important parts of a lease is the Termination Clause, which describes what will happen at the end of your lease. Some leases renew automatically unless you notify the landlord that you plan to leave. Other leases simply transform into a month-to-month rental agreement. If you anticipate being relocated by your company sometime in the near future, we recommend having the following language built into your lease:

“In the event the lessee is relocated by his or her corporation, the lessee may terminate this lease upon thirty (30) days prior written notice to lessor with no lease termination penalty.”

Other clauses to watch for include those that address automatic rent escalation and transfer of repair duty from the landlord to the tenant.

Security Deposit and Pre-Move Inspection

Most landlords require a security deposit (usually one month’s rent). After you leave, the landlord will assess the property’s condition. If there is no damage beyond normal wear and tear, he or she should return the deposit to you. Since the landlord will scrutinize the property before you move out, you should compile a detailed list of any problems or damages that exist when you move in, and have the list signed by your landlord. This way, you won’t be liable for pre-existing damage when you move out.

Tenants’ Rights

Most states offer tenants’ rights booklets which offer detailed outlines of your rights as protected by state and federal laws. Check the state government Web site of your new location or visit your destination city hall for more information.

For Global Assignees

Relocating abroad is exciting, but it also can seem overwhelming. This offers a practical overview of the many considerations in moving to another country. Included are helpful tips on your home-search trip, required legal and medical documentation, advice on preparing for travel, and suggestions on what to take with you and what to leave behind.

Destination Area Information

You Real Estate Agent scould send you complete information on your destination area before your homesearch trip, including:

  • Local business and cultural customs
  • Language practices
  • Entry requirements
  • Money usage
  • Health and safety considerations
  • Recreational activities… and more

Once you arrive, your GAR will brief you on the area. He or she will arrange for you to see carefully selected properties and oversee the entire process. Once you’ve selected a home, (s)he will handle lease negotiations and coordinate move in activities, such as inspections and utility connections.

Before You Leave

Important Documents

Passports are required for most foreign travel. Passport regulations vary from country to country, but usually include:

  • A previous passport (if available)
  • Proof of citizenship
  • Proof of identity
  • Photographs

Some countries require visas as well. For a work assignment, almost all countries require a work permit. Your company will assist you in acquiring needed work permits before you leave. Note that work permits for spouses or partners are usually difficult to come by. Permits are usually available only when employment is already arranged and the job can’t be performed by a national.

Medical/Dental Records

Have complete medical and dental exams at least three months before departing. This allows time for any needed treatments. Be sure to bring copies of medical and dental records with you.

If you take prescription medication, ask your doctor to name generic drugs. He or she can also provide documentation to avoid any customs issues.

Other Documents

Bring these important documents with you:

  • School records/transcripts
  • Marriage/divorce certificates
  • Financial records
  • Birth certificates
  • Adoption papers
  • Proof of purchase/appraisals for valuable goods (jewels, artwork, etc.)

Other Considerations Before You Leave

Currency Exchange

ATMs are common in most typical assignment locations, so it’s usually unnecessary (and unwise) to carry large sums of money. It’s smart to exchange a small amount of currency before you leave, to cover ground transportation and tipping when you arrive.

Financial Matters

It’s usually best to open a bank account in your destination location while retaining your accounts at home. Local accounts help to simplify local transactions, such as rent payments. If your home bank is a large, multinational institution, it might have affiliates in your destination area.

Many countries have regulations on currency imports and exports; check with your financial or legal advisors.

Taxes

Tax situations vary widely from country to country. In many places, your tax liability follows you around the world. Some countries allow certain tax credits for taxes paid abroad. You should speak with tax and/or accounting professionals before you move. Your employer may authorize tax/legal assistance on your behalf.

Voting

Most countries allow citizens living abroad to cast absentee ballots. Check your country’s regulations before you leave.

Preparing for Travel

Flight Tips

  • Carry all necessary items with you: prescription drugs, important documents, passports, etc.
  • Don’t overpack. Heavy, bulky, carry-on luggage can become a burden quickly.
  • Dress comfortably, and in layers.
  • If traveling with young children, bring a few books, toys, etc. to keep them amused.
  • Try to move around the cabin and stretch as much as practical.
  • To minimize dehydration, avoid alcohol and caffeine. Drink water and fruit juices.

On the Ground

Check out your airport transportation options. Many cities ofter express rail service between the airport and downtown. If you’re taking a taxi, make sure it’s licensed and discuss pricing before handing over your luggage or getting in.

Household Goods Tips

As you begin to plan your move, consider:

  • What do you need (what will really be useful in the new location)?
  • What’s allowed (not forbidden by local law or custom)?
  • What will your employer pay to transport?

Your Relocation Counselor can help you make these decisions.

Small Appliances

If you’re moving to a country with a different electric currency, you might find it’s not worth bringing small, inexpensive appliances along. Voltage converters are available; however, the appliances often still do not operate quite normally. In most typical global assignment destinations, suitable replacements can be found easily.

Sea vs. Air Transportation

Your company’s policy will determine how your goods will be shipped. Air shipment is costly; normally, you’re given a small allowance to cover essentials, such as clothing. Most of your goods will probably be shipped by sea. Discuss your needs with your Counselor and moving professionals.

Valued Inventory

Before packing, complete a thorough valued inventory, detailing each item in your shipment and its replacement value in the destination location. List small, miscellaneous items as a group. Your movers will provide more detailed information and forms.

The inventory will also help with customs matters, documenting what you’ve brought with you, and ensuring that you don’t have to pay duty on the items when you return. Forms are available from your national customs office.

Moving Checklist

Plan to be in your home while the movers are there (or nominate a responsible friend or relative).

  • Valuable items, heirlooms, and especially fragile items should be identified early.
  • Review the mover’s inventory list carefully; it will be used to verify any damage claims.
  • Separate items earmarked for storage before the movers arrive. Mark “DO NOT TAKE” clearly.
  • Appliances should be prepared for moving by a professional.
  • Leave mirrors, pictures, and other wall hangings in place, to avoid damage.
  • Make sure dishes and utensils are clean and in their usual place.
  • When the packing is finished, take a careful look through every room, closet, garage, basement, etc. to be sure nothing has been missed.

When the move out is complete, take a walk through to make sure all doors and windows are closed and locked; lights are adjusted; the thermostat is set appropriately; and the security system is activated. Keys should be delivered to whomever will be managing the property.

 

Shipping Automobiles

The decision whether or not to ship your car depends on your company’s policy and local laws and regulations. In many cases, cars will not comply with destination area laws and regulations, and modifications are usually expensive or impractical.

Many countries honor the International Driving Permit, which you can get before leaving (often through your automobile club). Some countries require local licenses, especially for extended stays.

Pets

Some countries do not permit importation of animals; others impose lengthy quarantine requirements. Check your destination country’s requirements well in advance.

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Good Article About Removing Fuel Oil Tanks from Basement!

In This Article:
A pair of old fuel oil tanks are disconnected from their supply piping, dragged over to the bottom of the basement stairs, and single-handedly hoisted up the stairs using a cable winch.
Related Articles:
Draining Unused Fuel Oil From Tanks
Killing The Fuel Oil Furnace

Skill Level: 2-3 Time Taken: A Couple Of Hours

By Bruce W. Maki, Editor

Question: What’s the first thing to do after you discover that your fuel oil furnace has conked out?

Answer: Start remodeling the basement, the basement stairwell, and anything between the furnace and the back door.

At least that was our approach when the old oil-burning monster died. We had been contemplating switching to propane, and this forced the decision.

The old furnace was quite large, about 3 feet wide by 6 feet long, and over 3 feet tall. Not being sure if it could be dismantled, we knew it would not fit up the basement stairs, through the door at the top of the stairs, and around the corner to go out the back door. It seems that about 10 to 12 years ago, long after the oil furnace and tanks were installed, the previous owner had built a dividing wall at the top of the stairs and installed a door. This created a small entry vestibule at the back door, but there was no way we could haul the furnace or oil tanks out with this partition in place.

Even if we wanted to keep a partition at the top of the stairs, the wall the previous owner built was so poorly constructed that we decided to tear it out and build something better.

So soon after the oil furnace died, while we waited for the heating contractor to fit us into their schedule, we demolished the partition and tore out all the wall surfaces around the stairwell. After opening up the stairs, we began to think about leaving the stairwell open, and building some shelving and storage into the area. But that is a project for another article.

It turned out that the old oil furnace was easy to dismantle. It was basically a sheet metal box surrounding a heavy steel heat exchanger. The heat exchanger was about one-fourth the size of the whole furnace, and was the largest and heaviest single piece. The two of us were able to haul it up the stairs with no problem.

But the oil tanks were another issue. These tanks were about 28 inches wide, 48 inches tall, and about 60 inches long. When the heating guy installed the new propane furnace, I mentioned how we would someday be hauling out the old oil tanks. He laughed and said “Don’t call me!”.

I figured I was in for a battle.

The oil tanks in the basement. Note all the concrete splattered on the tanks. A previous owner poured a concrete floor in the basement, but not under the tanks. The tanks rested on cement blocks placed on the original dirt floor.

I used a big 36″ aluminum pipe wrench to remove the fill and vent pipes.

Disconnecting the fill and vent piping was no small deal. The fill pipes were 2 inch diameter threaded steel pipe, and the vent was 1¼ inch pipe. After disconnecting the union fittings (the fitting in the picture above) I unscrewed whatever fittings and sections of pipe that I could turn. As a last resort, I could have simply cut all the pipe with my reciprocating saw, but unscrewing the pipes is faster.

Each tank had a shut-off valve at it’s outlet (note the red handles) though they were different types of valves. The larger red object in the right-hand photo contains a replaceable filter.

Using an adjustable wrench I removed the flare fittings that connected the copper tubing to the tee. I placed a small shallow container below the tubing to catch the oil.

I was able to remove the shut-off valves with a wrench. There was a ½ inch pipe thread on the other end of the valve, which later proved to be useful.

Not having a clue how to approach this, I tried lifting one of the tanks. To my surprise I was able to lift it by myself. I placed some blocks of wood under the steel “feet”.

Getting A Handle On Things:
I connected some short pieces of ½ inch black pipe to the drain line.
This will form a handle.

Outside, I removed a section of the fill pipe, and some elbows.

I attached some pieces of 1¼ inch pipe to the fill hole on the tank, to make an upper handle.

I had to buy an adapter to connect the 1¼ inch pipe to the 2 inch opening on the tank.

With these two handles attached to the tank, I was able to easily drag them across the basement floor. What I could not do was take a picture of myself doing that.

The monster challenge:
The basement stairs… with very low headroom.
There’s a couple of oil tanks that want to leave the basement.
I’m home alone, I won’t have any helpers for a couple of days and I don’t want to wait.

The view from the basement, looking up. The arrow points to the back door.

The monstrous solution:
Mechanical Advantage: With the tools I have, I can lift all sorts of things. I knew I could lift the tanks with a cable winch (a.k.a. “Come-Along”), but I needed an anchor point that was sturdy enough.

This door jamb was chosen for the job. I pried off the door stop trim and bolted this big automotive tow hook into the framing, using 6 inch lag screws.

This door jamb is just above the top of the stairs. The red arrow points to the hook.
I chose this anchor location because I realized that I could shoot a straight line from that door frame down to the bottom of the stairs.

The oil tank at the bottom of the stairs. Since the tanks were only about 28 inches wide, and the stairs were over 36 inches wide, I figured I would need to prevent the tank from slipping sideways.
So I placed a long 2×10 on the side of the stairs.

Using only muscle power I was able to get the tank started up the stairs, but no farther. Even with the convenient carrying handle, there was no way I could lift this 120 pound mass uphill.

The view from in the basement.

At this point I realized that the “handle” was going to hit the ceiling on the way up the stairs.

I used this short piece of 5/16 inch chain to provide a means of grabbing the oil tank.

To apply a uniform pulling force, I hooked the short chain to the front feet on the tank…

… and I hooked the cable winch to the mid point of this short chain. I knew that I needed to pull on the center of the tank, or else it would turn on me.

The other end of the winch was hooked to an extra-long section of 5/16″ chain, which was looped over the tow hook.
Of course, I began this operation with the winch’s cable fully extended.

I just cranked away on the winch and the tank moved up the stairs. But…

The tank kept leaning to the side, so made a “guardrail” by laying a 12-foot 2×10 on a short piece of wood (hidden below the near end of the plank). This short “outrigger” board was held in place with a couple of cement blocks.

It took only a few minutes to get the tank past the narrow headroom point.

At this point the cable winch had been completely wound up (the two red arrows point to the fixed and moveable parts of the winch, and they are close together).
I had to stop and reposition the chains.

Just in case…
I placed a long heavy steel bar under the short chain loop, to hold the tanks from sliding back down the stairs. But the back edge of the tank just happened to get wedged into place, so there was no weight placed on this chain.

I again extended the winch’s cable and connected it directly to the tow hook, and hooked the other end to the rusty old loop chain.

I continued to crank on the winch and the oil tank climbed higher up the stairs.

This was about as far as I could hoist the tank.
In this picture you can get a better idea of how the tank was rigged.

This is one of the four “feet” under the tank. These made convenient grab points for the hooks.

This picture was taken from just outside the back door.
With the chain and winch still connected, I swung the tank towards the back door and slid it outside.

These tanks were fairly easy to move around, though I couldn’t lift the entire weight. I was able to “walk” the tank by lifting one side and then the other.
Here I screwed some handles back in place to help move the tank.

The Damage Is Done:
However…
Moving these two oil tanks from the basement caused some damage. The stair treads got rather chewed up from the heavy weight being dragged across them.

The tank left some scratches on the basement floor (top arrow) and some small puddles of oil (bottom arrow). Oil spills won’t dry up, and they may leave an odor for many months.

I routinely use a spray can of automotive brake cleaner (which is very volatile and may be highly flammable) to remove oil spots from concrete. I spray the brake cleaner on the spot and immediately wipe it up with a paper towel. Brake cleaner removes most of the oil, but there is usually a slight stain on the concrete.

The door jamb was not as secure as I first thought. The jamb pulled away from the casing, leaving a gap (arrow).

But none of these minor problems were any cause for concern, because all of these areas either need remodeling or are utility spaces that don’t really matter. This is an important issue for many people, however, because not everybody is willing to remodel part of their house just to remove an oil tank.

The relevant point is: If a house has good finished surfaces between the oil tank and the back door, it would be wise to have several people available to help move the tank. Protective measures such as rugs or scraps of carpet could be employed to prevent damage.

The oil tank area after the tanks were removed. The corner was a mess. It had collected debris and junk for about half a century.

When I hauled away the tanks, I loaded them both in my tiny 4×8 utility trailer and strapped them in place with ratcheting tie-down straps.
I would have preferred to lay the tanks down, but they both would not fit, and I didn’t want to make two trips.

To keep the straps from slipping out of place, I threaded the straps through the holes in the feet.

Cleaning The Oil Tanks:
While this is probably not necessary, I attempted to clean the oil tanks, just to see if I could. I started by hauling the tanks far into the back yard. We live on an old farm, so there’s lots of open land here. I strapped each tank to my fridge dolly and hauled them out back beside my bonfire pit. Then I poured a gallon of mineral spirits into a garden sprayer (the sprayer instructions loudly warn against spraying combustible liquids, but… I live on the edge) and poked the sprayer nozzle into the various openings on the tanks. I sprayed the insides from top to bottom, then I flipped the tanks over a couple of times (end over end, to avoid spilling liquids). I drained the tanks over some newspapers and scraps of wood, so the liquid could be burned off. I suspect it’s better for the environment to burn such petroleum products rather than let them evaporate.

Next I poured about a quart of denatured alcohol into the garden sprayer and sprayed the alcohol. into the tanks to rinse away the mineral spirits and oil. This certainly helped, but a quart of alcohol was not enough to do the job. I drained the alcohol over the burn pile, rolled the tanks a safe distance away, and ignited the liquid waste.

Later, I put some Simple Green in the garden sprayer, not diluted at all. Simple Green seems to be a good water-soluble degreasing agent. I sprayed the insides of the tanks and then rolled the tanks around the hayfield, this time letting stuff come out the large holes on top. Large chunks of black charcoal-like gunk came out. I rinsed the tanks several times with a garden hose.

Now the tanks smelled of a combination of Simple Green AND fuel oil.

After I hauled away the tanks, the back yard smelled faintly of fuel oil. There were numerous spots of black oily gunk in the field. I used a propane torch to burn off these oily spots (being careful not to let grass fires get started), and that seemed to remove the odor.

Was this the best thing to do? I don’t know. If I was going to cut the tanks open, I could have wiped the insides clean with rags or newspapers.

Disposing Of Old Oil Tanks:
I was able to dispose of the old tanks at a local metal recycling company. Normally they require that all tanks be cut in half, but they made an exception for me because I had given them over 100 gallons of unused fuel oil. Besides, the manager knew somebody who might be able to use them, so they accepted the tanks intact.

I have seen people make large trailer-mounted barbecue grills from oil tanks. They cut the tank in two, turning the top half into a hinged lid, and install supports for metal grills. This was of no interest to me, but I seriously considered placing an advertisement in the local paper to give away these tanks. But… I just didn’t have the time to fool around with such things… I just wanted them gone. Whatever happens to these old tanks, at least the steel will be re-used or recycled.

Disposing of large items like oil tanks could be quite a problem. I doubt the garbage haulers would take an oil tank if you left it by the curb. It would be wise to find someone to take the oil tank before removing it from the house.

Cutting these tanks would be time-consuming, but not impossible. An oxy-acetylene torch immediately comes to mind, but I would NOT recommend using a torch to cut an oil tank. A cutting torch could easily ignite leftover fuel inside an oil tank, and any kind of fire inside an enclosed chamber could be explosive. Besides, there could be other liquid residues in the tank, liquids that are much more volatile than fuel oil.

I have cut plenty of heavy-gauge steel with my Sawzall. The trick to cutting (or drilling) heavy ferrous metals is :

Use a sharp, fine-toothed, metal cutting blade. Bi-metal blades are the best because the teeth are a harder metal than the blade body.
Use a slow cutting speed, to reduce overheating of the blade. The higher-priced Sawzalls have a control dial that limits the maximum speed. When cutting iron and steel, I use 3 on the scale of 1 to 5.
Push hard on the cutting tool.
Lubricate the HELL out of the cutter. I often use WD-40, but any oily substance will help. Plain water will work too, but it will rust the blade if not wiped off after use. Sometimes I use a waxy lube stick that is meant for lubricating doors and hinges. I keep a tube in the Sawzall case and just rub it on the blade. In a pinch, spitting on the blade is better than nothing. I’m not kidding!
In a nutshell: If you want to dull your cutting blades: cut ferrous metals at high speed, don’t push very hard, and don’t lubricate the cutter. The blade manufacturers will love you.
One problem with cutting these oil tanks would be the weld seams at the corners. When steel is welded the nearby metal becomes much harder, and the weld metal itself is usually very hard. I suspect this would destroy most reciprocating saw blades, even bi-metal blades. My approach would be to use an abrasive cutter in the weld area. I have an inexpensive pneumatic 3″ diameter abrasive disc cut-off tool. This tool only cost fifteen bucks, but it requires a large air compressor (this is perhaps the most powerful tool I have; it makes my 4 HP air compressor run nearly full time). An angle grinder would also work, or an abrasive blade could be used on a circular saw. In fact, the entire cut could be made with an abrasive metal-cutting blade mounted on a circular saw, but it might be slower than a Sawzall. Besides, these abrasive blades throw sparks, and too many sparks might ignite traces of oil in the tanks.

Don’t Be Stupid: Complete The Job!
I have heard stories in the past (there was one on the local news just the other day) about fuel oil being delivered to the wrong house. Free oil, no big deal, right? Unless the house had the oil tank removed.

Imagine coming home to find a couple of hundred gallons of smelly fuel oil in your basement. Yu-uck! What a mess. What a hassle. It would take forever to get rid of the odor.

Of course, this could only happen if someone removed the oil tank but didn’t remove the fill tube. That is simply dumb. If you are going to remove an oil tank, complete the job and remove the oil fill tube and vent tube. Or at least screw a pipe cap on the open end of the pipe down in the basement. Why leave an open access pipe into your house?

Fuel Oil and Fire Safety:
I’ve seen people who were afraid that fuel oil, kerosene or diesel fuel could explode. That is a clear sign of ignorance. Anybody who is familiar with these fuels knows that you can’t pay these fuels to burn, and explosive combustion is basically impossible. It is difficult to get fuel oil to burn; it has to be spread out in a thin layer, such as in a wick, or sprayed into a fine mist (which furnaces do). A puddle or container of oil just won’t burn readily.

I think one of the most appealing features of fuel oil is its high degree of safety.

BUT… fuel oil, kerosene or diesel could have other flammable liquids mixed in, so use extra caution if you are not certain of the origin of the oil. Any waste oil product could easily contain other more volatile liquids. For instance, used motor oil commonly gets mixed with a bit of gasoline because mechanics often use an oil drain pan to catch dripping gasoline.

Tools Used:
Pipe Wrenches, 24″, 36″
5/16″ Chain
2-Ton Ratcheting Cable Winch
Automotive Tow Hook

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Oil tank leak drains FWCS crisis fund

Oil tank leak drains FWCS crisis fund

Another building problem has wiped out Fort Wayne Community Schools’ emergency funds.

“For the rest of the year, we’ll cross our fingers that we don’t have an emergency,” spokeswoman Krista Stockman said.

A leaking underground oil storage tank at Scott Academy has drained the remaining $56,000 set aside for such emergencies. The district began the year with $600,000 to spend but a tank removal at Pleasant Center Elementary and roof repairs at Harrison Hill Elementary took most of that money. The board is set to approve the work at Scott Academy, which has already begun, at its Monday meeting.

In the event of another emergency before January, Stockman said the district would have to dip elsewhere in its building fund, which is used to pay for equipment, technology, maintenance and security, as well as pre-planned projects. State law prevents the district from raiding other areas of its $284 million budget for building repairs.

“It’s not a secret that we have some problems with our buildings,” Stockman said. “If it was something catastrophic, we just plain wouldn’t have the money for that, and we would have to get real creative about what we’re going to do.”

A $500 million building renovation and expansion plan the district proposed a year ago to shore up its aging infrastructure was soundly defeated in a taxpayer remonstrance.

The district has long been concerned about what it calls a deteriorating heating system at Snider High School. “You still have to educate,” Superintendent Wendy Robinson said earlier this year. “People think, ‘Oh, you’re just crying wolf.’ It’s not in our best interest to disrupt the education of children.”

Stockman said planned projects or equipment purchases could be delayed in case of another emergency, but the cost of a large problem – even the size of Harrison Hill’s – could exceed those potential savings.

“That’s always a concern,” she said, “and that’s why we’ve been talking about a long-term plan.”

Last month, the board began discussion of a new long-term renovation plan, one that won’t give taxpayers sticker shock.

“I think we’re ready to go and explore and figure out how to do it in an affordable manner,” board President Mark GiaQuinta has said.

No details have been released, and no further discussions have been held since June 23.

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Concrete Technology Restores Historic Bridges

Engineering firm French & Parrello used advanced concrete technology to update and repair two deteriorating New Jersey spans.

Submitted by French & Parrello — Constructioneer, 7/21/2008

As our nation’s bridges come under increasing scrutiny, New Jersey agencies are taking action. At issue was bridge safety for two deteriorating spans in high traffic areas. The challenge was to maintain the historic character of the two bridges while updating them to current safety standards. The engineering firm of French & Parrello in Wall, NJ, met this challenge head on with advanced concrete technology that garnered the firm awards for both projects by the New Jersey chapter of the American Concrete Institute (NJACI) and the New Jersey Concrete and Aggregate Association (NJCAA).

Route 202 over Mine BrookThe first bridge is a NJ Department of Transportation span on Route 202 over Mine Brook in Bernardsville Borough. It was a concrete arch bridge in a rural, but highly trafficked, area. Local residents wanted the replacement bridge to replicate the original as much as possible.

“Initially, we were considering staged construction for replacement of the bridge,” said Michael Troncone, P.E., Transportation Department director, French & Parrello. “But that would have had tremendous environmental repercussions. It would have required temporary widening and the cutting down of numerous trees, wetlands impacts and filling within a flood plain. Therefore, we had to close the bridge and detour the traffic.”

In order to minimize these closures, French & Parrello turned to precast concrete. The bridge was designed using precast inverted T-sections. Small cast-in-place closure pours in the footings were used to lock the precast sections together. Stone veneer from a local quarry was used on the exposed surfaces of the bridge to create the historic look.

The NJDOT required the project to be completed within nine weeks. The actual installation of the precast concrete took only a few days. The remainder of the time was for aerial utility relocations, road construction, drainage, grading, and placement of the stone veneer.

“The contractor finished three weeks ahead of schedule due to the decision to work with precast concrete,” acknowledges Troncone.

67-fott span on East Cliff Stree over Peters BrookThe second bridge is a 67-foot span on East Cliff Street over Peters Brook in Somerville Borough. The original bridge featured concrete balustrades within the parapets and on the arch. While the concrete slab arch had only minor spalling and some exposed reinforcing steel, the spandrel walls were bulging and leaking water. The challenge here was to replicate the architecturally significant balustrade parapets.

“It became apparent that concrete had to be used on this project,” explains Troncone, “so that the finished result would replicate the original bridge without indicating that it was rehabilitated.”

French & Parrello called for the removal of the original spandrel walls and installation of an anchor slab that was doweled into the top of the arch. Designers then called for pouring of new spandrel walls in front of the anchor slab. On top of the wingwalls and the new spandrel walls, the contractor placed a parapet that incorporated precast balustrades, precast planks and cast-in-place railing and pylons that replicated the look of the original bridge. A calcium nitrate-based corrosion inhibitor was added to the cast-in-place concrete to increase the service life of the rehabilitated concrete bridge components.

Also included in the work was rehabilitation of the arch extrados. A cement mortar parge coat was spread over the arch, and a membrane waterproofing applied. Porous fill (No. 8 broken stone) was used to fill the space above the arch to support the road bed.

Three different types of concrete repairs were also performed at various locations along the arch intrados and on the front face of the wingwalls. Quick-setting, non-sag patch concrete was used to repair surface scaling, concrete spalls and areas with exposed reinforcing steel. The team coated all exposed exterior surfaces with a flexible acrylic skim coat for a smooth, uniform appearance.

“A very valuable feature of concrete is that it can be formed in any shape desired,” said Troncone. “These projects validate the fact that concrete can be used to incorporate aesthetics in bridge design.”

For the first bridge, French and Parrello utilized 58 cubic yards of NJDOT Class A concrete, 212 linear feet of abutment and wingwall units, and 53 linear feet of culvert units for a cost of $1,242,421. For the second bridge, the firm repaired 995 square feet with 92 cubic yards of concrete plus 460 square yards of mortar parge coat. There was also 147 linear feet of balustrade railing.

The innovations in both bridges earned French & Parrello recognition by the concrete industry at the NJACI and NJCAA annual awards.

“We are pleased to be honored for these projects, which will ultimately make those areas in New Jersey a better place to live,” said Argo Parrello, president and CEO of French & Parrello.

The NJACI is an active organization of approximately 500 members who strive to further education in concrete technology throughout the state of New Jersey. Members include contractors, engineers, educators, concrete and concrete material suppliers, manufacturers of concrete-related products, and testing laboratories. For more information, visit www.njaci.com.

The NJCAA represents their members in areas of legislation and technical consultation. The group promotes the concrete and aggregate industry.

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Newark, New Jersey Celebrates First LEED Certified Homes

WHAT:  The Lincoln Park Coast Cultural District (LPCCD) is hosting a
        press conference and open house recognizing the first United
        States Green Building Council (USGBC) Leadership in Energy and
        Environmental Design (LEED) certified homes built in the City
        of Newark – The Washington Street Mixed Use Buildings. There
        are six 3800 square feet buildings offering two residential
        units and commercial space on the first floor of each
        building.

       The completion of The Washington Street Mixed Use Buildings
        makes LPCCD the largest USGBC LEED Homes provider in the State
        of New Jersey. These homes are also the only mixed-use LEED
        Homes in New Jersey and the first LEED Homes built in an urban
        area in the State. This program will include a ribbon cutting
        ceremony, tours of the building and remarks from several
        speakers.

WHO:   Stefan Pryor, Deputy Mayor for Economic Development, City of
        Newark
       Richard Osworth, Director of Community Resource, Acting
        Director of Housing Services, State of New Jersey Department
        of Community Affairs
       Mark Kabakow, Senior Relationship Manager, Wachovia Bank
       Joseph A. Forline, Vice President Customer Operations, PSE&G
       Carmen Rainieri, Board Member, United States Green Building
        Council – NJ Chapter

WHEN:  Thursday, July 24, 2008 at 10:30am

WHERE: 450-460 Washington Street (enter at West Kinney Street)
       Newark, New Jersey 07102

WHY:   The LEED Gold certified Washington Street Mixed Use Buildings
        will offer sustainable features that include Energy Star
        windows and appliances, bamboo flooring and cabinets, recycled
        concrete countertops, low VOC paints, low-flow water fixtures,
        dual flush toilets and solar power. These amenities benefit
        the homeowner and the environment as well as conserve energy,
        reduce energy costs and provide health benefits.

       LPCCD is a community development corporation with a mission to
        plan, design and develop a comprehensive arts and cultural
        district in Lincoln Park in Newark, New Jersey. The LPCCD
        project is one of the nation’s best practices in urban
        sustainable community development and is developing one of the
        nation’s first urban eco-villages. The organization is also
        hosting the 3rd Annual Lincoln Park Music Festival, a
        signature event in the City of Newark, designed to further
        revitalize the Lincoln Park community. Tours and week long
        festivities will be held from July 24 through July 27, 2008
        for visitors to experience the revival of this historic
        neighborhood. For more information visit  www.lpccd.org and
        call (973) 242-4144 for more information.

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How to reduce lead risks around your home

Carbon monoxide, radon gas and toxic mold aren’t the only hidden hazards that homeowners need to fear. There’s also the danger of exposure to a particularly harmful heavy metal – and not of the eardrum-splitting variety. The culprit is lead, and the threat is more pervasive and common than many people realize, especially in older homes, say the experts.

Lead can be found in many forms throughout the home: in paint, toys, dinnerware, dust that you track in from the outside with your shoes, and even your soil, which can pick up lead from exterior paint and past use of leaded car gasoline, says Gregg Steiner, president of Green Life Guru in Santa Monica, Calif.

Additionally, your older home may have plumbing with lead or lead solder that can leach the metal into your drinking water, and foods or liquids stored within lead crystal or lead-glazed pottery or porcelain containers can likewise be contaminated, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

One of the biggest sources of lead contamination is old paint. Many residences built prior to 1978 used lead-based paint, stain, varnish and shellac, which was nationally banned by the Consumer Products Safety Commission that year, says Lee Wasserman, president of LEW Corp., an environmental service provider in Mountainside, NJ.

“Hazards around these older homes include all painted surfaces that are cracking, chipping, flaking, peeling and chalking, and all friction and impact surfaces that have not been proven to be non-leaded,” Wasserman said. “The risk of lead poisoning is greater the older the home is. However all homes are potentially suspect to leaded products entering their environments.”

Lead is harmful to all humans, but especially children, who absorb more of it through their digestive tracts – between 30 to 75 percent, while adults absorb approximately 11 percent, says Debbie Lindgren, co-founder of Bluedominoes, Inc., a company dedicated to helping parents discover how environmental and dietary factors influence children’s health, behavior and learning.

Lindgren says that, according to the American Academy of Pediatrics, the Centers for Disease Control and the World Health Organization, lead exposure can cause significant neurodevelopmental effects, including weakness in attention, aggression, headaches, vomiting, nausea, constipation, antisocial/delinquent behaviors, hearing problems, poor hand-eye coordination, sleep disturbances, slowed growth, seizures and more.

The EPA reports that lead is ingested into the body when we put our hands or other objects covered with lead dust into our mouths, when children eat paint chips or soil that contains lead, or when we breathe in lead dust, particularly during remodeling projects that disturb painted surfaces.

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Steve Rich ‘Clear and Free’ Program – Free Oil Tank Removal in New Jersey-New York!

Remove and/or install a new oil tank with no worries, and no hassles. Do it clear and free today! Steve Rich Environmental Contractor’s (SREC) is pleased to be able to offer you an opportunity to work with our company and the State of New Jersey to ease your financial burden through the State’s Petroleum Underground Storage Tank Program (PUST).

Our team of experts understands the rules and regulations of the PUST program. With the help of the State’s program, SREC has developed our own program for homeowners to remove or abandon an old underground storage tank (UST) and an installation of a brand NEW oil tank, absolutely FREE. Planning on converting to gas or alternative energy? Not a problem, this program is also designed for just removing an underground storage tank as well. SREC will remove the old oil tank FREE of charge.

If you meet the following requirements, you are on your way to safeguarding your existing or new home CLEAR and FREE of any environmentally concerns that may have surfaced with continued use of an old UST.

 

Eligibility Requirements for the CLEAR and FREE Program:

[Requirements needed to remove and/or install your tank completely for FREE. If you don’t meet these exact requirements, additional charges will apply, and our sales team will discuss the charges with you.]

The UST must have clear and easy access for equipment and to perform the physical work to remove and/or install the tank. *
Flexible Schedule — Allow SREC the flexibility of when the work will be completed. *
Must qualify for the grant money through the NJEDA. Click here for more information on the grant program.
  * An explanation of these requirements are noted below.

 

Have questions yet?
Call our office and speak to one of our experts.
1-877-7-DEPEND or 973.458.1188
Call today for expert help

Here’s what SREC will do for you:

  Oil Tank Removal
Reimburse your $250.00 grant application fee.*
Help you complete the necessary forms to apply for the grant program.
Compile all the necessary documentation to submit with the grant application.
Apply for the permits through the local municipality.
Schedule inspection with the municipality.
Backfill site to grade (no site restoration, topsoil, concrete, etc). A quote can be provided to do complete restoration.
  New Oil Tank Installation
Apply for the permits through the local municipality.
Schedule inspection with the town.
Supply a UL listed 275 gallon tank.
Transfer enough oil for startup of the new tank system.
All associate piping to the boiler.

SREC recommends that your oil company complete a startup upon completion of the installation.

  Eligibility Requirements for Clear Access
for an Underground Storage Tank
The tank must be accessible for a small backhoe or bobcat type machine. Can SREC still complete the work if it is tight access? Yes, we can even hand dig if needed, but other charges will apply.
Underground utilities can not be near the tank. The State of New Jersey Board of Public Utilities mandates under penalty of law that no excavations by machinery can occur within 24” of a marked utility.
The tank must be free of any contaminants inside the tank, dirt, water, other debris.
The homeowner must help SREC the day of the job to secure parking for our trucks so equipment and labor are near the work site.
  Eligibility Requirements for Clear Access
for the Installation of a New Tank:
Access and egress must be clear.
Area of install must be clear.
Tank must be within 20 feet of boiler.
Tank lines will be exposed ( under the Free and Clear program SREC cannot run lines through a finished basement)

Eligibility Requirements for Flexible Schedule:

SREC requires that your project be coordinated with other projects in your town and surrounding towns so that two projects can be completed in one day. Consequently, SREC requires that the project not be rushed and provided ample time to schedule the work.

 

What does that mean?

In the towns that SREC is offering the CLEAR and FREE program, we typically complete at least 12 to 24 projects each year. That means that the typical waiting time once we receive the signed contract and obtain all approvals, is under 1 month.

** Restrictions apply: SREC requires the homeowner to pay $250.00 application fee if the homeowner is denied the grant money, or backs out of contract. Upon completion of project, a two party check (payable to SREC and the homeowner) will be issued, at which time the homeowner will sign over to SREC. We will reimburse the application fee of $250.00 at that time.

 

Costs that may be incurred:

Customer responsible to pay the following if applicable:

• Town or city permits if required (most require) — SREC will complete the permit application and submit.

• If the tank contains water or has been previously filled, and the tank was not cleaned properly and the soil is contaminated, customer is responsible to pay for disposal.

• Police and traffic control if required. Some towns/cities require a police officer to be on site if work is being done on a very busy road. Customer to pay police officer directly.

• Traffic signs if required.

Call and speak with one of our knowledgeable representatives to get more details. 1-877-7-DEPEND.

start thinking about your next vacation

 

Serving New Jersey in Aldene, Allendale, Alpine, Arlington, Asbury Park, Atlantic Highlands, Avalon, Avon, Babbitt, Baltusrol, Bayonne, Bayway, Bedminster, Belleville, Belmar, Benders Corner, Bergen, Bergen County, Bergen Point, Bergenfield, Berkeley Heights, Berkeley Heights Township, Berkeley Township, Bernards Township, Bernardsville, Bloomfield, Bloomfield Township, Bloomingdale, Bloomingdale Borough, Bogota, Boonton, Boonton Township, Bradley Beach, Brick Township, Brielle, Brigantine, Budd Lake, Butler, Caldwell, Carlstadt, Carteret, Cedar Grove, Chatham Borough, ChathamTownship, Chester Borough, Chester Township, Clark, Cliffside Park, Clifton, Clinton, Closter, Closter Borough, Colts Neck, Communipaw, Cranbury, Crane Square, Cranford, Cranford Junction, Cresskill, Deal, Demarest, Denville Township, Dover, Morris County, Dover Township, Toms River, Ocean County, Dumont, Dunellen, East Brunswick, East Hanover, East Newark, East Orange, East Rutherford, Eatontown, Edgewater, Edgewater Park Township, Edison, Elizabeth, Elizabethport, Elmora, Elmwood Park, Emerson, Englewood, Englewood Cliffs, Englishtown, Essex County, Essex Fells, Essex Fells Borough, Fair Lawn, Fairfield, Fairview, Fanwood, Fanwood, Borough of, Fort Lee, Fort Monmouth, Franklin Lakes, Free Acres, Freehold Township, Garfield, Garwood, Glen Ridge Borough, Glen Rock, Grasselli, Guttenberg, Hackensack, Hackettstown, Hainesport, Haledon, Harrington Park, Harrison, Hudson County, Hasbrouck Heights, Haworth, Hawthorne, Hazlet, Highland Park, Highlands, Hillsdale, Hillside, Hoboken, Holmdel, Hopatcong, Howell, Hudson County, Irvington Township, Jamesburg, Jefferson Township, Jersey City, Kearny, Kenilworth, Kinnelon, Lake Como, South Belmar, Lakehurst, Lakewood Township, Leonia Borough, Liberty Square, Lincoln Park, Linden, Little Falls, Livingston, Lodi, Long Branch, Madison, Madison Hill, Mahwah, Manalapan, Manchester, Maplewood, Marlboro Township, Maywood, Mercer County, Metuchen, Middlesex Borough, Middlesex County, Middletown Township, Midland Park, Millburn, Millburn Township, Milltown, Monmouth County, Montclair, Montvale, Montville Township, Morris County, Morris Township, Mount Arlington, Mountainside, Murray Hill, Neptune City, Neptune Township, Netcong, Netherwood, New Brunswick, New Providence, Newark, Newton, North Bergen, North Brunswick Township, North Caldwell, North haledon, North Plainfield, Nutley, Oakland, Oakwood Park, Ocean County, Ocean Township (Monmouth County), Old Bridge Township, Old Tappan, Oradell, Overlook, Paramus, Park Ridge, Park Village, Parsippany, Passaic, Passaic County, Paterson, Perth Amboy, Perth Amboy Junction, Piscataway Township, Plainfield, Pompton Lakes, Prospect Park, Rahway, Ramsey, Randolph, Raritan Township, Ridgefield, Ridgefield Park, Ridgewood, Ringwood, River Edge, River Vale Township, Riverdale, Rochelle Park, Rockaway, Rockaway Township, Roseland, Roselle, Roselle Park, Roxbury Township, Rutherford, Saddle Brook, Saddle River, Scotch Plains, Seaside Heights, Seaside Park, Secaucus, Somerset County, South Bound Brook, South Brunswick, South Harrison Township. South Orange, South Plainfield, South River Borough, Springfield, Staten Island Junction, Stony Hill, Summit, Sussex County, Teaneck, Tinton Falls, Toms River (Township of Dover), Totowa, Tremley, Tremley Point, Tremont Park, Union, Union County, Union Square, Union Township, Union Village, Union City, Upper Freehold Township, Upper Saddle River, Vauxhall, Verona, Waldwick, Wall Township, Wanaque Borough, Washington Township (Bergen County), Washington Township (Morris County), Watchung, Wayne, Wayne Township, Weehawken, West Caldwell, West Milford Township, West Orange, West Paterson, Westfield, Westwood, Winfield, Woodbridge Fire Department.Woodbridge Township,Woodcliff Lake, Woodland Park, Wood-Ridge, and Wyckoff.

Serving New York State (Westchester County) in: Amawalk, Annsville, Archville, Ardsley, Ardsley-on-Hudson, Armawalk, Armonk, Arthur Manor, Banksville, Bayberry Park, Bedford, Bedford Center, Bedford Hills, Beech Hill, Beechmont, Beechmont Woods, Bonnie Crest, Boutonville, Briarcliff Manor, Bronxville, Bronxville Heights, Bryn Mawr Park, Buchanan, Buckhout Corners, Butlerville, Cecil Park, Cedar Knolls, Chappaqua, Chauncey, Chester Hill Park, Chimney Corners, Colonial Acres, Colonial Heights, Crestwood, Crestwood Gardens, Crompond, Cross River, Croton Falls, Croton Heights, Croton-on-Hudson, Crotonville, Crugers, Dobbs Ferry, Dunwoodie, Dunwoodie Heights, East Irvington, East White Plains, East Woods, Eastchester, Eastview, Elmsford, Elmsmere, Fairview, Fleetwood, Forest Knolls, Fox Meadow, Furnace Woods, Gallows Hill, Glendale, Glenville, Glenwood, Goldens Bridge, Graham, Granite Springs, Grant Corner, Greenhaven, Greenville, Grey Oaks, Greystone, Gunther Park, Harrison, Hartsdale, Hastings-on-Hudson, Hawthorne, Heath Ridge, Heathcote, Heritage Hills, Homestead Park, Horseshoe Hill, Horton Estates, Huguenot Park, Isle of San Souci, Jefferson Valley, Katonah, Kitchawan, Lake Katonah, Lake Lincolndale, Lake Mohegan, Lake Purdy, Larchmont, Lawrence Park, Lewisboro, Lincoln, Lincolndale, Lowerre, Ludlow, Mamaroneck, Maplewood, Mariandale, Millwood, Milton, Mohegan Heights, Mohegan Lake, Montrose, Mount Airy, Mount Hope, Mount Kisco, Mount Pleasant, Mount Vernon, Murdock Woods, Murray Hill, Nepera Park, Nepperhan, New Rochelle, North Salem, North White Plains, Oceola Lake, Orienta, Oscawana, Ossining, Park Hill, Parkside, Peekskill, Pelham, Pelham Manor, Philipse Manor, Pinebrook, Pinebrook Heights, Pleasantside, Pleasantville, Pocantico Hills, Port Chester, Pound Ridge, Purchase, Purdys, Purdys Grove, Quaker Ridge, Quarry Heights, Residence Park, Ridgeway, Rochelle Heights, Rochelle Park, Roe Park, Rosedale, Rye, Rye Brook, Salem Center, Sarles Corners, Scarborough, Scarsdale, Scarsdale Downs, Scarsdale Park, Scotts Corners, Secor Gardens, Shenorock, Sherman Park, Shore Acres, Shrub Oak, Sleepy Hollow, Sleepy Hollow Manor, Somers, South Salem, Sparta, Spring Valley, Stanwood, Sun Haven, Sunny Brae, Tarrytown, Thornwood, Toddville, Tompkins Corners, Tuckahoe, Twin Lakes Village, Valhalla, Valley Pond Estates, Van Cortlandtville, Vernon Park, Verplanck, Victory Park, Vista, Waccabuc, Waverly,West Mount Vernon, White Birches, White Plains, Whitehall Corners, Wilmot Woods, Windmill Farm, Woodlands, Woodybrook, Worthington, Wykagyl, Wykagyl Park, Yonkers, Yorktown, and Yorktown Heights.

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Good home-repair books are a must for the toolbox

Do-it-yourselfers are made, not born — the successful ones read and follow directions. And the successful how-to book is the one that provides information succinctly, with plenty of clear illustrations, on projects that fit the skill levels of both the experienced and the neophyte.

Need to know: Not all how-to books are the same. Some dwell on the writer’s experience; others are limited to a particular topic, such as electricity or plumbing; many are just design books with pretty pictures. Greatest value for the money comes in books that provide insight into a variety of topics, are useful when you’re making minor alterations and repairs, or give background knowledge for when you deal with contractors or salespeople, so you don’t sound stupid.

Buyer beware: More than three decades of home-improvement TV has transformed the how-to book from unillustrated, wordy tome into picture book with expanded captions. But another result is celebrities lending their names to works actually penned by kids just out of college who wouldn’t recognize a reciprocating saw if they saw one. Don’t be fooled by a familiar face on the cover. It’s what’s inside that counts.

Web extras: How-to books have a short shelf life, primarily because products and tools change almost daily, and thus techniques do too. Many publishers now use Internet sites to provide continuing updates to their books, including animated step-by-step instructions and how-to videos, as well as links to products and services. Books with those add-ons are good buys.

The classics: These should be on every bookshelf.

– “Home Book” (Creative Homeowner Press, $40). A lot of do-it-yourself books assume the reader either has experience or will get better over time. This one does neither. It doesn’t shy away from complicated projects, such as installing a window or building a deck. But it also knows what’s most important to a typical homeowner, devoting several pages at the beginning to dealing with household emergencies — what to do in a power outage, for example. It provides basics on hand and power tools, but focuses on what you need to know rather than what is interesting to the writer. For the big stuff, there’s a remodeling guide that focuses on hiring professionals and, if necessary, resolving disputes with them.

– “Reader’s Digest’s New Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual” ($29.95) goes a bit deeper into tools, including use and maintenance, and has more complicated projects for the high-end DIY type.

– “Reader’s Digest’s New Fix-It-Yourself Manual” ($35) is a rehab of the 1977 edition, dropping sections on auto maintenance and bookbinding in favor of VCR and teddy-bear repair. It’s simple, well-illustrated and, at 448 pages, thorough.

– “Outdoor Projects 1-2-3,” from Home Depot and Meredith Books ($24.95), is a volume of few words and many illustrations. Its chief selling point is its “Skill Scale,” which gauges how long a job will take based on your level of expertise. For example: “Building a patio roof requires carpentry skills. It will take 40 hours for the experienced person, 60 for those with intermediate skills, and 80 for the beginner.”

– “Reviving Your House: 500 Inexpensive and Simple Solutions to Basic Home Maintenance Issues” by Alan Dan Orme (Storey Books, $14.95). This is a must-buy. It will help you develop a checklist for keeping your house whole.

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NJ unemployment makes biggest jump since 2006

New Jersey’s unemployment rate increased to 5.4 percent in May, making its largest monthly jump since April 2006. The figure is in line with the national unemployment surge last month to 5.5 percent, up from from 5 percent in the biggest national jobless jump since 1986.

“Clearly, the national labor market is struggling, and New Jersey is consistent with that trend,” said State Labor Commissioner David Socolow.

He urged the federal government to provide extended unemployment insurance benefits, “so that job seekers will have additional support while they look for work in this uncertain economy.”

Total employment was virtually unchanged in May, as New Jersey added 100 jobs to bring the workforce to a total of 4,071,700.

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Drilling off shore unlikely : NJ Gov. Corzine

New Jersey Gov. Jon Corzine does not expect oil drills off the coast now that President Bush has lifted an executive ban on such exploration.

Corzine notes that Congress would have to take similar action, and a state would have to agree, before drilling could start.

The Democratic governor says drilling would have no short-term benefit to rising gas prices and would only accentuate the nation’s “addiction to foreign oil.”

New Jersey has 127 miles of bathing beaches on the Atlantic Ocean, which comprise a large part of its tourism industry.

Corzine was among several top New Jersey Democrats who last week said they want to permanently extend a ban on offshore oil and gas drilling from Maine to North Carolina.

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NJ officials warn of lamp oil poisonings

New Jersey officials have issued a health alert saying six people have been sickened by mistaking lamp oil for apple juice, including one person who died.

Bruce Ruck of the state Poison Information and Education System says the six drank small amounts of the oil, which resembles apple juice in color and is packaged in a similar container. Health officials haven’t identified the brand.

Ruck said Wednesday that the victims ranged in age from 18 months to 84 years. The 84-year-old died Monday.

Three of the survivors were hospitalized but have been released. Ruck said an 8-year-old suffered permanent lung damage from drinking the oil. A report by the Illinois poison control center identified 70 cases of torch oil poisonings nationwide during a two-year period ending in December.

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Breaking Oil News: G-8 to fight oil prices with efficiency, tech

AOMORI, Japan (AP) — The world’s top industrialized nations and leading oil consumers pledged Sunday to fight skyrocketing energy prices by increasing efficiency and accelerating investment in new technologies, while urging producers to expand production.

Energy ministers from the Group of Eight countries, joined by China, India and South Korea, voiced concerns over record oil prices and said both producers and consumers would benefit from greater market stability.

Ministers, meeting in the northern Japanese city of Aomori, focused Sunday on how they could diversify their energy sources to both control rising demand for oil and rein in emissions of greenhouse gases blamed for global warming.

“We simply must increase the level and breadth of investment all around the world,” said U.S. Energy Secretary Samuel Bodman. “That means promoting aggressive investment in renewable energy and other alternative energies technologies, as well as the development of tradition hydrocarbon resources.”

The 11 nations, which account for 65% of the world’s energy consumption, grappled with oil prices that have hit record highs. Prices made a massive 8% gain Friday to $138.54 on the New York Mercantile Exchange.

The G-8 countries — the United States, Russia, Japan, Germany, France, Italy, Canada and Britain — laid out ways of cutting their dependence on oil in a statement.

They pledged to launch 20 demonstration projects by 2010 on so-called “carbon capture and storage,” which would allow power plants to catch emissions and inject them into underground storage spaces.

While that technology is still in its infancy, proponents say it could eventually allow the expanded exploitation of the world’s abundant supply of cheap coal without polluting the environment and speeding global warming.

There were clear rifts, however, on how to approach the expansion of nuclear energy. The carefully worded joint statement called for assurances on safety and security of nuclear materials, but several nations said they were enthusiastic about building new reactors.

The International Energy Agency, in a report issued last week, estimated the world would have to construct 32 new nuclear power plants each year from now until 2050 as part of an effort to cut global greenhouse gas emissions by 50%.

“I think we’re on the verge of a new nuclear age and that will be a positive thing for the world,” said John Hutton, British secretary of state for business enterprise and regulatory reform.

Germany, however, said it would not join the effort. Jochen Homann, Germany’s economics minister, said Berlin was sticking to its decision to phase out nuclear power.

The G-8, China, India and South Korea also established the International Partnership for Energy Efficiency Cooperation to promote best practices in conserving energy.

While the participants called for more oil production, it could take months to get a response. Production levels have been flat for three years and Chakib Khelil, the president of the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries, has said the group will make no new decision on output until a Sept. 9 meeting in Vienna.

The ministers met amid rising concerns that soaring oil prices could trigger global economic troubles. Fanning such fears, both Japan and the United States have announced higher unemployment rates in recent weeks.

“The situation regarding energy prices is becoming extremely challenging,” warned Akira Amari, Japan’s trade and energy minister. “If left unaddressed, it may well cause a recession in the global economy.”

The Sunday meeting followed a joint statement by five top energy consumers — the U.S., Japan, China, India and South Korea — that warned high prices were a menace to the world economy and more petroleum should be produced to meet rising demand. They argued the unprecedented prices were against the interests of both producers and consumers, and imposed a “heavy burden” on developing countries.

The group, however, diverged over oil subsidies. The International Energy Agency has estimated that oil subsidies in China, India and the Middle East totaled about $55 billion in 2007.

The United States urged countries such as China to lower oil supports, which buoy demand, while poorer developing nations said removing subsidies could trigger political and economic unrest.

 

Copyright 2008 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

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What’s up with oil? (Besides the price …)! Oil Price Rise Effects?

If you’ve picked yourself up off the floor or parked the car for the day (maybe weekend), take time to read some other perspectives on the oil frenzy:

Oil smashes to record above $139 a barrel: Oil roared to a new record on Friday as hedge funds that had bet on a decline in crude prices were forced to exit their short positions. … The rally was also supported by comments from Israel’s transport minister suggesting an attack on Iran’s atomic facilities looked “unavoidable” given the failure of sanctions to curb Tehran’s nuclear ambitions. …

Technical analysis for crude oil – 6/6/2008: I believe that on the short term prices will keep inclining due to the weakness of the dollar if it remains to depreciate but on the longer run prices will have to start falling again due to global slowdown since demand is currently crippled or until economies pick up on growth.

Consumer anger as oil prices soar: Consumers are protesting around the world as oil prices continue rising, with US oil topping $139 a barrel after its biggest-ever one-day increase. The rises come after many goverments were forced to cut fuel subsidies and follow a report on Friday by Morgan Stanley, the US financial services firm, that crude could hit $150 a barrel by July 4. …

U.S. has few options as oil nations tighten grip: Resource nationalism in oil producing countries is cordoning off valuable supplies and the United States has precious few options to battle the trend amid a looming supply crunch. …

Act now to prick the oil price bubble: Bubbles come to an end eventually but there is no guarantee that this will happen soon. The global economy is likely to be forced into a serious crisis if we do not explore the possibility that this is a bubble that needs to be burst quickly. The market can then resume its trend, depending on whatever the fundamentals dictate. …

Why oil prices will tank: High-flying tech stocks crashed. The roaring housing market crumbled. And oil, rest assured, will follow the same path down. …

The oil shock of 2008: Time to reassess the potential for recent oil price increases to contribute to an economic downturn. …

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Do-It-Yourself Warning: Self-Disposing of Oil Tank Can Be a Problem!

For any of a variety of reasons, you may at some point decide to switch from your current oil-fired furnace to one fueled by electricity or natural gas. Part of the changeover process is the removal or abandonment of the old fuel oil tank that supplied raw oil to the furnace, and there are some very strict procedures for dealing with these tanks properly.

The federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) does not specifically regulate residential oil tanks unless they are leaking, and if you have knowledge that an oil tank is leaking you are required by law to report the situation immediately. Different state Environmental Protection Agencies and some local jurisdictions also have regulation ordinances in place, so your first step following an oil furnace changeover should be to contact your local city or county building department – they can tell you if local ordinances are in effect, and direct you to the proper agency.

While you are not actually required to do anything with a non-leaking tank, aging tanks can present a variety of potential health, environmental, and liability problems, so it’s still in your best interest to permanently and properly abandon the tank as soon as possible – especially if it’s located underground. This process, called “decommissioning,” involves draining any remaining fuel oil from the tank and then either removing the tank from the ground or filling it with sand. This prevents any possible future contamination from a leak as the tank degrades over time, and it also should eliminate the possibility of the ground sinking or even collapsing if the tank were to corrode through completely and collapse. Even if you do not intend to decommission the tank at this time, you should drain any remaining fuel oil to prevent possible soil contamination if the tank should rupture.

You can perform the work yourself, or you can hire it out to a contractor. The cost for decommissioning a fuel-oil tank typically starts at around $500 and goes up from there, depending on what’s involved. If you have a leaking tank that has contaminated the soil, EPA-regulated cleanup can easily run into the thousands.

Another issue with old oil tanks comes up if you are selling your home. Once you become aware of the existence of the tank, most states require that you and your real estate agent disclose its presence to the new buyers. Even at that, under the quirks of some of today’s laws and with the propensity for lawsuits in every conceivable situation, you will probably continue to have some potential liability for cleanup costs in the event of a current or future leak – even long after you’ve sold the house. Also at risk in some situations are any of the previous owners of the house — if the previous owners did not disclose the tank’s presence to you when you bought the house, they often must share liability for leaks, repairs, and cleanup as well.

If you have an oil tank that is no longer in use — whether it’s above or below ground — it is strongly recommended that you talk with your local city or county agencies first to find out about local regulations. If you want to decommission the tank or if you suspect a leak, the next step would then be to contact your local heating oil supplier to get the names of contractors in your area who are licensed for underground tank work, and get them out to take a look.

Once again, if the house is up for sale you need to discuss the situation with your real estate agent – who should, by the way, be fully aware of all laws and liabilities regarding oil tanks and disclosure laws. As a last resort you may also have to discuss things with an attorney if you feel you or the previous owners have some liability. Typically, oil tank situations can be handled with minimum expense and hassle. However, the potential liabilities today can be huge so don’t ignore the situation.

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Technical Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA) Ontario’ new regulations for heating oil storage tanks to counter oil spills

This article is a follow-up to our February 2002 edition for Ontario residents, which discussed the dangers of leaking fuel oil tanks, how to avoid problems and how to handle spills and leaks.

Unprotected and neglected storage tanks can potentially ruin a life-long investment. More than one million Canadian homes are heated with oil and over the past few years, there have been a startling number of tank failures – and the trend will grow as traditional steel storage tanks continue to corrode.

Due to condensation, water and sludge accumulating at the bottom, the majority of steel fuel oil tanks rust from the inside out. This damage is not immediately apparent and often presents itself as a catastrophic tank failure. Leaks can also be due to improper maintenance, damp locations and physical damage. Fuel oil leaks have raised insurance claims by 50% over the past few years, with clean-ups often costing more than the property was worth.

New Regulations

The Technical Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA) in Ontario has instituted new regulations for heating oil storage tanks to counter oil spills. The rules would require that only licensed installers install and regularly inspection tanks. Tanks would have to be tagged and registered and oil deliveries be made only to tanks that have the registration tag. Therefore, the responsibility for tank maintenance has been divided among the owner, the installer and the oil company.

Insurance Rebates

Insurance companies and governments have recognized that without immediate attention to the problem, leak incidences from residential fuel oil tanks will increase and costs for clean-up will skyrocket. Several insurance companies are now offering refunds to their clients to encourage them to replace their furnace and storage tank systems. Manufacturers are also offering rebates to customers for furnace and tank replacements.

Better Fuel Oil Tanks

Manufacturers of storage tanks have improved their products and warranties. Several new tank products have been marketed during the last few years. Steel tanks have gone to a heavier gauge to mitigate the effect of corrosion and perhaps increase their lifespan. New technologies for non-metallic tanks have emerged so that internal corrosion ceases to be an issue. Glass fiber tanks, in single wall and double wall versions, and the polyethylene tank, secondarily contained in a galvanized steel container, are two examples of new designs which are both proven, tested and ULC listed for the storage of fuel oil.

FICTION: An oil spill won’t cost any more than the deductible amount of a homeowner’s insurance.

FACT: Some insurance policies specifically exclude pollution coverage for leaks or spills from residential heating oil tanks. Homeowners should contact their insurance broker, and review their policy to confirm whether they have pollution coverage, and whether there are any limitations to their coverage.

FICTION: If an oil tank has handles, it’s less than 20 years old.

FACT: The presence or absence of handles is not an accurate indication of age. Only the serial number on the tank ID plate, or a valid date stamp would provide a reliable indication of age.

FICTION: The government says now, that oil tanks have to be changed every 12 years.

FACT: An existing above ground fuel-oil tank is considered approved provided the tank was installed in accordance with the code at the time of installation. As long as the tank is not leaking, there is no age at which the government demands the tank must be replaced.

FICTION: All underground tanks have to be removed immediately.

FACT: New regulations require that all underground tanks to be registered with the Technical Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA) by May 1, 2002 or fuel oil will not be delivered to the tank. Underground tanks that are 25 years and older, or of an unknown age, and not specially protected from corrosion are required to be removed by October 1, 2006.

FICTION: If a tank has been inspected, there won’t be any trouble getting insurance.

FACT: Insurance companies often reject new applications for coverage of homes with tanks over “X” years of age. Twenty years of age seems to be the most common denominator. Many insurance companies will not provide coverage for underground tanks under any circumstances

FICTION: Oil heating is smelly and expensive.

FACT: Oil furnaces, hot water tanks and storage tanks need not exhibit any odors when properly installed and maintained. Oil heating is a cost-effective alternative to natural gas.

A FEW MORE FACTS FOR ONTARIO RESIDENTS:

Homeowners are required to annually maintain their fuel oil appliances (boilers, furnaces, water heaters, etc.) by having a TSSA certified Oil Burner Technician service and clean the appliance.

Homeowners are required to have their fuel oil appliance installations safety inspected by their fuel oil supplier.

Fuel oil suppliers that find unsafe equipment are required to stop the delivery of fuel oil until the equipment is fixed.

The Technical Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA) is an independent, not-for-profit organization responsible for the delivery of a range of safety services. This includes the administration of Ontario’s Technical Standards & Safety Act, 2000 within various industry sectors and the delivery of safety programs to the public.

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Steve Rich & Associates Release Helpful Guidelines To Help Homeowners, Businesses & Municipalities In Tank Related Problems!

Newark, NJ (1888PressRelease) May 27, 2008 – Steve Rich & Associates announced today that they are offering the public a set of guidelines for finding a reputable oil tank removal service. This guidance covers all areas associated with tank removal such as, excavation, cleaning, filling, installation, commercial, residential, contaminated, fuel, aboveground, underground, locating, environmental, contractors, leaking, buried and compliance.

Steve Rich is hoping that by sharing the benefit of his 27 years in the tank removal business, he can help people connect with honest and reputable firms, and steer clear of the rest. The tips are presented in list form for ease of reading.

• Ask questions and expect answers. If you have not received a word of mouth referral, select a few possibilities to get you started and then pick up the phone and call each potential service provider. Find out how long the company has been in business, if they are local, national, international, and if they specialize in one area. Ask for their references, all contact information, as well as an outline of their company policies.

• Do your homework. Research the background of companies that you may be interested in working with. Check their references, their website if they have one, and ensure that you’re dealing with a provider who has current state licenses and certificates. If the business has a store front, go there and check it out.

• Ascertain whether or not their services match your needs. Find out the scale of work the company does. Do they specialize in one area, and does that specialty align with what you’re looking for? If they provide only local service, how far will they travel before increasing fees? It’s also important to find out when your job can be done. If they’re scheduling far in advance, you may have to wait quite awhile.

• Get a quote in writing. Ask to receive a complete price – all fees listed – and have the company commit to a working time frame to do the job. If your tank is beyond repair and requires dismantle and removal, make inquiries to determine if a provider is able to handle the job. You’ll want to find out the following:

• Area of specialization may be underground or above, fuel, chemical, or water tank removal. Ask which of these the company is experienced in.

• Insist on seeing the company’s state licensing. No license should be a sign for you to look elsewhere.

• Find out if they remove the piping, pumps and concrete foundations. If you don’t discover this until after the tank is removed, you may be faced with hiring a different contractor to come and finish the removal process.

• Do they service your sector – homeowner, business, municipality?

• Always get a quote in writing with all fees and work completion date listed. With some due diligence as mentioned above, you can protect yourself as much as possible from unreliable service and unscrupulous individuals.

The public is invited to contact Steve Rich & Associates (http://www.steve-rich.com/) with questions, or for further information.

Contact information:
Steve Rich & Associates, Inc.
One Passaic Street — Unit A
Wood-Ridge, New Jersey 07075
Phone: 973.458.1188
Toll-Free: 1.877.7.DEPEND
Fax: 973.458.1199
info ( @ ) steve-rich dot com
Serving Atlantic, Bergen, Burlington, Camden, Cape May, Cumberland, Essex, Gloucester, Hudson, Hunterdon, Mercer, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Ocean, Passaic, Salem, Somerset , Sussex , Union, and Warren Counties, including lower New York and Westchester County.

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Busby SEO Challenge : My SEO Competition Entry

I am entered as Participant in the Busby Web Solutions Search Engine Optimisation Challenge ! Looking forward to won this contest.

Useful and informative information about Busby SEO Challenge Contest for everyone:

Regional or Global Participants: Anyone can join this Busby SEO Challenge contest from any part of the world without any restrictions. All the applicants for this Busby SEO Challenge will have to abide by the Terms & Conditions set by the Busby SEO Challenge team.

Legal Information: However, these isn’t any information is available about the legal conditions for this Busby SEO Challenge Contest. But this is expected that all the legal issues for Busby SEO Challenge will be resolved at Australian jurisdiction.

Payment Security Information: The Busby SEO Challenge Contest organising company is a good and reputed company in Australia providing various Web services so it looks like there is a security of the prize money and they will timely provide the prizes to the Busby SEO Challenge winners.

Terms and Conditions of Busby SEO Challenge : All the terms and conditions for this Busby SEO Challenge contest can be reviewed at the website of the organisers. However, main Busby SEO Challenge contest points are listed below.

Here are the basic rules of this contest:

Looking to prove that you are the best SEO specialist in the world?Welcome to the Busby Search Engine Optimisation World Cup!  
BUSBY Web Solutions
BUSBY is proud to invite SEO specialists, guru’s, masters, authorities, hot shots and aces (and anyone else who thinks they may have a shot at the pot) to take part in our Busby Web Solutions Search Engine Optimisation World Cup. The rules are simple and the rewards lucrative:
BUSBY Web Solutions
SUMMARY
Set up your own website and optimise it for the key phrase we announce on 1st June 2008. Welcome to the Busby Web Solutions Search Engine Optimisation World Cup!Entrants will be given 3 months to use their best endeavours to optimise a key phrase so that it appears as high as possible on www.google.com, when that particular key phrase is searched for. The winner will be the person whose site is ranked the highest, when that particular key phrase is searched for, on 31st August 2008, 12:00 midday, Perth, Western Australia. The runner up 2nd and 3rd place prizes will be awarded to those two entrants whose site is ranked the second and third highest.

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